Maremma / Jade Nina Sarkhel
Hattie Lloyd 29/09/22
Brixton may be the bottom of the Victoria line, but it’s top of the pack when it comes to restaurants. Whether you’re on the hunt for a little Japanese soul food, a Caribbean roti or a couple of Indian small plates, Brixton is jam-packed full of great places to eat.
Check out our numero unos below:
Fish, Wings & Tings | £
Trinidadian Brian Danclair is the chef-owner of Fish, Wings & Tings, an eternally packed-out Brixton restaurant. It’s hard to miss, blasting out reggae right by the entrance of Brixton Market, with punters spilling out onto the kerbside to cool off with Red Stripe and rum punch in the sunshine. The food menu – divided into Small Tings and Big Tings – covers all kinds of Caribbean classics, from fried plantain and cod fish fritters to curried mutton roti and jerk chicken. It’s a taste of how Brixton used to be, and it’s excellent.
FWT full up? Try your luck at Brian’s new place, Danclair’s Kitchen, inside the arcade.
Details: 3 Granville Arcade, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, SW9 8PR | Just turn up
Bottle & Rye | £££
Bottle & Rye is your latest from Robin Gill, which is already a good start considering the restaurateur’s track record in delivering quality food and drink venues (Sorella, Darby’s and Maria G’s, among others). His Brixton restaurant and wine bar is located by the entrance of the market, sporting a similar appearance to the sort of bistro you’d imagine is the norm in Paris (blackboard menu, bentwood stalls, a tall dark wood bar… you know the drill). Even if you’ve arrived with the intention of ‘just one glass’, don’t be surprised when you’re still sat on one of those bentwood stools hours later, two bottles in and helped along by small plates in the vein of rabbit & agen prune terrine and Cantabrian anchovies on toast.
Details: 404-406 Market Row, SW9 8LD | Book here
Nanban | ££
Coming to you from the youngest ever Masterchef winner, Tim Anderson, Nanban is precisely the restaurant you need to visit next time you experience a particular craving for Japanese soul food infused with European influences and ingredients fresh off Brixton Market. Which, naturally, means dishes in the form of plantain katsu curry; breaded Japanese mackerel with jerk mayo; and some of the best ramen in London like their famous Lazy Goat Ragù-men with Scotch bonnet-pickled bamboo shoots.
Details: 426 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LF | Book here
Naughty Piglets | £££
Husband and wife duo Joe and Margaux Sharratt had long wanted to open a restaurant.
And Naughty Piglets is the realisation of their hambitions.
The grill restaurant and wine bar has an intimate feel, serving up small plates like fried duck egg with apricot and girolles alongside carefully-selected wines and homemade damson gin. And for a nightcap, slip downstairs to the candlelit cellar…
Details: 28 Brixton Water Lane, SW2 1PE | Book here
Kricket Brixton | £££
Kricket held its first ever pop-up restaurant in Brixton, so it’s a fitting location for its second permanent eatery. It’s an unexpectedly romantic spot, with soft leather banquettes and mismatched wooden furnishings nestled in an industrial railway arch space. The dishes are all ‘Anglo-Indian’ in style, so expect numbers like Goan sausage croquettes; spiced cod roe on telicherry paratha; and Keralan fried chicken with curry leaf mayo…
Details: 41-43 Atlantic Road, SW9 8JL | Book here
Three Uncles | ££
Three Uncles specialise in Hong Kong style siu mei (literally ‘roasted meats’ in Cantonese). You can get absurdly succulent duck still on the bone, char Sui BBQ pork, or Hainan-style spiced chicken all piled onto bowls of rice or delicate Lo Mein noodles. Their Brixton restaurant is a small space, and it’s highly casual, but if you’re after a first-rate lunch, or a lovely light dinner, then you can’t really beat it.
Details: 19 & 20 Brixton Village, SW9 8PR | Just turn up
POP Brixton | £
Pop Brixton is a pop up village constructed entirely from disused shipping containers, bursting with greenery and strung up with festoon lighting, that’s home to impromptu jazz concerts, DJ nights and weekend markets. Peruse the dozens of independent boutiques and vintage stores before exploring the alleyways lined with street food vendors hawking steaming bowls of ramen and sizzling jerk chicken – or head to sit-down restaurants like Caribbean spot Dinner at San’s.
Details: 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ | Just turn up
Temaki | ££
At Temaki, chef and rice expert Shaulan Steenson will feed you until you ask him to stop. And we mean that quite literally, because he’ll happily serve you an omakase selection of sushi hand rolls over the counter of his minimalist, teeny tiny bar in Brixton Market…
Details: Unit 12 Market Row, Brixton, SW9 8LD | Book here
Maremma | ££
As hinted at by the name, Maremma, this Brixton restaurant is a celebration of both food and drink from the Maremma region in Tuscany; a bright and airy neighbourhood restaurant, serving a short menu of seasonal Tuscan dishes – fresh pasta, fresh fish, and game – alongside a wine list, filled with wines, many of which are undiscoverable anywhere else in the UK.
Details: 36 Brixton Water Lane, Brixton, SW2 1PE | Book here
Since you’re in the area… check out these great things to do in Brixton
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