All too often, Christmas lights are just a long string of disappointments.
But all your festive anticipation is more than justified this year, because London is gradually transforming into a festive, wintry wonderland that would put the set of Elf to shame. There’s the usual glittering displays running the length of the city’s most famous streets, sure, but there’s also pop-up installations, colourful lantern parades, a market full of giant bells and a pub that’s literally entirely covered with Christmas trees.
What’s more, we’re keeping this list updated with all the dates for Christmas light switch-on events around the city, where you can see the dazzling illuminations for the first time alongside live music, mulled wine, and celebrities pressing big buttons.
So if you want to do something festive in London for free, taking a walking tour of the city’s Christmas lights should be just the ticket. Here’s what to look out for…
Psst… these are all the Christmas lights going up on London’s main streets. If you’re after the ticketed light installations that pop up around London’s parks, gardens and stately homes, check out our Winter Light Trails guide.
REGENT STREET
The oldest and the best: Regent Street was the first of London’s main streets to put up Christmas lights back in 1954, and they’re still some of the city’s most iconic illuminations 70 years later. 50 oversized ‘spirits’ sweep majestically along the street followed by twinkling canopies, totalling an impressive 300,000 lights (all green-powered).
Switch-on: Thursday 7th November (no special event)
Make a night of it: If you can’t face the crowds to tackle your Christmas shopping, start your evening at the Photographer’s Gallery (it stays open till 8pm on Thurs & Fri). Then wend your day down Regent Street to see the lights, and recover with toasty gin cocktails at the Ham Yard Hotel‘s rooftop pop-up.
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TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Every year since 1947, the people of Oslo have gifted London a Christmas tree as a thank you for Britain’s support for Norway in WWII. And all 25m of the spruce gets draped in traditional vertically strung fairy lights, which are switched on in early December.
Switch-on: 5th December, 5.30-6.30pm, followed by carols in the candlelit church with mulled wine, 7.30-9.30pm
Make a night of it: St. Martin in the Fields has carol concerts throughout December, so you could try to time your tree admiration with one of their atmospheric candlelit services. Then continue the candlelit theme with a glass of wine at Gordon’s, or head to Velvet for luxurious cocktails & live music. Grab a bite at Bancone before working your way up to see the lights in Covent Garden.
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COVENT GARDEN
Covent Garden’s market halls are soon to be decked with dozens of enormous bells, bows, baubles and disco balls, which have collectively involved 275kg of glitter, apparently. Apart from this, it’s business as usual with daily flurries of fake snow cascading from the market itself; a giant 60ft tree; and a photo opp with Santa’s sleigh – a genuine carriage from 1884 – at the front of the market. And you can enjoy it all with a cup of mulled wine or hot chocolate from one of the many pop-up bars dotted across the piazza.
Switch-on: Tuesday 12th November, timings TBA
Make a night of it: Head down on a Thursday to browse the shops till late, and soak up the lights with a hot drink while the sounds of live choirs caress your ears. Try to grab a walk-in spot at Miracle (which would, indeed, be a miracle), or escape the crowds by slipping up to the Royal Ballet & Opera’s roof terrace overlooking the piazza. And if you’re peckish, head to Lady of the Grapes for wine and fondue.
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CARNABY STREET
This year Carnaby Street’s Christmas lights bring a ‘design-led’ and ‘architectural approach’ to the genre, with the installation of 6m long ‘sculptural light forms’ over the iconic street, as well as 60,000 energy efficient LED bulbs casting their sparkle at street level. The stars/crackers/pioneering art forms shimmer with different light sequences every hour, and the whole green-powered installation is designed to last the street for the next five years.
Switch-on: 7th November. Over 100 shops, bars & restos usually part in the celebrations, with discounts and live entertainment all night.
Make a night of it: Start at the top or bottom of Regent Street to take in those lights, then dip into Liberty’s ground floor for some Christmas window shopping. Head down Carnaby Street, enjoy a warming dinner at Darjeeling Express or Bébé Bob, then wrap up with cocktails and live jazz at Nightjar Carnaby.
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CHELSEA
The streets of Chelsea will be festooned with glittering arches of light this year, alongside a giant Christmas tree popping up in Duke of York’s Square. The switch-on event – manned by the big man himself – is a day-long festival, with three stages of entertainment, roaming performers, mulled wine, a Christmas market and even the promise of snow…
Switch-on: 16th November from 12pm, with switch-on at 5pm
Make a day of it: Spend a leisurely afternoon window shopping on the King’s Road before the lights come on (don’t miss John Sandoe Books, and get a hot chocolate from Knoops if you start flagging). Wander along to the Saatchi Gallery for one of their Winter Lates, before cosying up by the fire at The Orange.
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ST KATHARINE DOCKS
The marina tucked next to the Tower of London will be getting a touch of festive cheer with a giant twinkling tree; Christmassy garlands decorating the old Victorian lamp posts; and fairy lights festooned across most of the buildings. It’s already one of the most historic, atmospheric little corners of London so this should send things into overdrive.
Switch on: 14th November, 5.30-7pm (switch-on at 6pm), with live music, mulled wine & mince pies
Make a night of it: Soak up the lights of the dock and browse the waterfront market stalls before taking a stroll over Tower Bridge to see the London riverside all lit up. Then head down to Maltby Street Market for festive street food and more mulled wine.
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BOND STREET
Bond Street’s crown jewel-inspired Christmas lights are going up again this year, but as resplendent as they are, it’s the shops themselves you’ll want to watch out for. In recent years Bond Street’s branches of Cartier, Chanel, Gucci and other glitzy designer flagships have become locked into some serious festive oneupmanship, with hundreds of fairground bulbs, evergreen garlands, wreaths and enormous bows adorning their elegant facades.
Switch on: 16th November
Make a night of it: Walk the whole length of the street to end up on Piccadilly and check out the windows at Fortnum & Mason’s (and maybe pop in for some super-fancy stocking-fillers). Go book browsing at Hatchett’s and Maison Assouline. Pop into St James’s for carols, if you can time it right. Then head to Gelupo for a boozy hot chocolate and a festive toasted brioche ice cream bun to power you up Regent Street, Savile Row and Carnaby Street for more lights.
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GREENWICH MARKET
If the 120 antique, vintage and independently run craft stalls aren’t enough to lure you in for a bit of Christmas shopping at Greenwich Market, then the twinkling lights, Christmas trees and mulled wine should do the trick…
Switch-on: 20th November, 2-6.15pm – things kick off with a handmade festive lantern parade, followed by the switch-on at 5pm and shopping in the market with a brass band & carollers till 6pm.
Make a night of it: Pick up some of London’s finest hot chocolate at Dark Sugars before joining the parade. Then when things wrap up at the market, head to Champagne + Fromage for wintry raclette and a bottle of fizz, and take a boat ride back into central London to see the city at night.
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BELGRAVIA
Belgravia’s streets will be decked with dozens of dazzling lights this year – but the real artistry will come from local florist Moyses Stevens, who’s creating an outsized Christmas wreath to adorn Elizabeth Street. There’ll also be a Christmas market held at Eccleston Yards during the switch-on, and on weekends in the run-up to the big day.
Switch-on: 17th November, 11am-4pm, with mulled wine, carolling from the London Gay Men’s Chorus and Fulham Brass Band, shop discounts, and what we understand to be live reindeer. The switch-on is at 3.45pm with Royal Ballet star Marianela Núñez.
Make a night of it: You can barely move for trays of free mulled wine by the sounds of it, but you could also pop to Tomtom Coffee House for a crème brûlée latte or peppermint white hot chocolate while you watch the lights go on. Have a mooch around the market and stop by Amie Wine Studio for an apéritif, then stroll down Ebury Street for dinner at Wildflowers. You could tack on a walk down King’s Road to see the Chelsea Christmas lights, too.
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Marylebone’s Christmas lights have been crafted from over 19,000 plastic bottles, which is refreshing. And their switch-on will feature Santa’s Grotto, a good ol’ charity tombola, some live music, a ferris wheel, wreath-making and bauble-decorating (book ahead) and a little festive shopping with discounts, free gifts and complimentary drinks at over 50 shops, bars & restaurants. And the streets themselves will be lined with market stalls, where you can pick up a few early gifts and stuff your face with Italian treats, hot chocolates and mulled wine.
Switch-on: 13th November, 3-8pm (switch-on at 6pm)
Make a night of it: Start off by soaking up some free culture at the Wallace Collection, then soak up a Guinness at The Grazing Goat. Go window shopping under the lights in Marylebone Village, then wrap up with a wonderful, warming Mexican feast at Cavita.
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OXFORD STREET
Europe’s longest shopping street has been adorned once more with a canopy of sustainably-designed stars for Christmas this year. Each humble star has been made from recycled polymers, and all together, the 300,000 individual twinklers make for a pretty dazzling display.
Switch-on: 4th November
Make a night of it: You could very easily make your own Christmas lights crawl from Oxford Street down Regent Street – popping onto Carnaby Street and Savile Row along the way – then down Piccadilly to see New Bond Street. And stopping for dinner at Brasserie Zédel (and perhaps catching a show at The Crazy Coqs) wouldn’t be a terrible idea…
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THE CHURCHILL ARMS
For context, this West London pub managed to attach 97 Christmas trees to its exterior during a global pandemic. So you can bet they’re going to be pulling all the stops out this year…
Switch-on: 14th November, 6pm
Make a night of it: Catch one of the blockbuster exhibitions at the Design Museum before window shopping along High Street Kensington (and find some unique stocking fillers at Japan House). Sink a pint in the pub itself, then slip off for dinner at Akub – maybe followed by a cosy flick at The Gate Picturehouse.
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LEADENHALL MARKET
Plastered in red and gold, this Victorian shopping arcade looks fairly festive all year round. So you can imagine how ridiculously Christmassy it gets when they throw festoon lighting, pine garlands, mini Christmas trees, a big Christmas tree, and wreaths into the mix. This year, they’ll also be running festive markets in the run-up to the big day.
Switch-on: Thursday 14th November from 5.30pm, switch-on at 6pm
Make a night of it: Once you’ve soaked up the festive cheer in the market, make a beeline for The Ned, where you’ll find festive menus, live music, and the highly popular carolling nights with Gareth Malone. Or head up to the roof of Coq D’Argent to cosy up in a private chalet (book ahead).
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HARRODS
Fine, so it’s not just strictly a Christmas display, given that they’re up all year round – but the 12,000 bulbs adorning the Harrods facade are more than just a touch festive. Plus, it’s an excuse to swing by their insane food hall, featuring 150 chefs and a vegetable butcher.
Switch-on: On now
Make a night of it: Well, you are right next to Winter Wonderland… but for something slightly more sedate, do a little fantasy Christmas shopping in Harrods, then take in the lights in Belgravia and enjoy a rooftop dinner at Sachi.
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THE WEST END
Ok, so this is quite a big patch of London, but Art of London’s Christmas lights make a tour that basically writes itself – Art of London’s lights will adorn Piccadilly, Leicester Square, Coventry Street, Cranbourn Street, Irving St, Bear St and St Martin’s Lane. And it’s a tour that helpfully takes you past a lot of Central London’s most enticing bars and restaurants en route…
Switch-on: 7th November
Make a night of it: Starting at New Bond Street, you can stroll along Piccadilly and onto Coventry Street to hit Leicester Square, where you’ll find a Christmas market and the Spiegeltent hosting La Clique. Take Cranbourn, Irving or Bear Street onto Charing Cross Road, and duck through the historic Cecil Court to finish up on St Martin’s Lane. Recommended pitstops along the way include J. Sheekey for seafood and holiday cheer; Hotel Café Royal for a festive afternoon tea; and Mr. Fogg’s Tavern for seasonal tipples, excessively Christmassy decor and Cockney singalongs around the piano.
Want to crank the festivity up to 11? Book in to one of London’s winter light trails