POP UP RESTAURANTS | August 2021
Rogues at Hackney Coffee Co
Loveable Rogues Zac Whittle and Freddie Sheen are bringing their take on British seasonal dining to the atmospheric Hackney Coffee Co this month, with a weekly changing menu of dishes like marinated feta and pickled watermelon tart; blood nectarine, elderflower and Rice Krispie trifle; and line-caught mackerel with fennel vinegar. Plus, on the 15th they’ll be joining forces with the maverick Whyte Rushen (more on whom later) to create a takeaway feast including Space Raider sandwiches and Rushen’s ‘gumball cone’…
Details: Reservations available on select dates in August – book here | 503 Hackney Road, E2 9ED
Tom Cenci at Stoney Street
Tom Cenci’s residency at this Borough restaurant was originally scheduled to last three months. That was back in October 2020. And when he’s serving up dishes like this pine cone-shaped baked alaska, it’s easy to see why he’s been asked to stick around. The rest of the menu hops from pot-sticker dumplings to smashed cheeseburger and sweetcorn crumpet, and it’s all delicious.
Details: Wed-Sat nights | Stoney Street, 2-3 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AA | Walk-ins only
On Special Guest Series at Larry’s
Our last Agenda, from March 2020, featured Larry’s as an exciting upcoming opening. Somehow, the fledgling resto made it through the past year and a bit, and is adding to its roster of NYC-inspired dishes this month with a series of guest dishes. They’ve each been designed by one of owner Nicholas Balfe’s friends, who just coincidentally happen to be some of the best chefs in town. It kicks off with James Cochran’s buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (with pressed jerk potato and Red Stripe-pickled shallots), before Oklava’s Selin Kiazim takes over with her pomegranate glazed lamb breast. That’s followed by Rob Casson’s souped up burger, beef short rib birria from Nud Dudhia (one half of Breddos Tacos), and finally Portuguese-style quail and chips from Ixta Belfrage, co-writer of Ottolenghi’s Flavour.
Details: Each available for a week from 2nd, 9th, 16th, 23rd & 30th August | Larry’s, Unit 5, 12-16 Blenheim Grove, SE15 4QL | Book here
Tendril at The Sun & 13 Cantons
Tendril’s won itself legions of fans over the past few years, and it seems to have found itself a semi-permanent home down in Soho. Former Chiltern Firehouse and The Dairy chef Rishim Sachdeva is busting out a mostly-vegan, all-veggie menu borrowing from cuisines around the world, with dishes ranging from roast cauliflower with XO sauce and cacao nibs; massaman curry with acorn squash and coconut; and ratatouille with a little ras el hanout.
Details: Throughout August | 21 Great Pulteney St, Soho, London W1F 9NG | Book here
Hot 4 U at The Prince Arthur
Eddy Tejada and Matthew Scott are Hot 4 U, something they’d like to demonstrate with their unbelievably delicious residency menu at Dalston pub The Prince Arthur. The menu changes all the time, but you can expect dishes along the lines of tempura elderflower, peri-peri guinea fowl to share, and Ya Mum’s Pavlova. READ MORE
Details: Open for lunch and dinner daily | 95 Forest Road, E8 3BH | Book here
GROUND at the Spurstowe Arms
Could it be…? Burgers that actually reduce carbon emissions? GROUND aren’t just full of hot air; their meat is sourced from The Ethical Butcher, who do a lot of Medieval-sounding things like crop rotation to allow land to recover from cattle farming and actually take carbon out of the atmosphere. Oh, and we should also probably mention that the burgers are absolutely delicious. READ MORE
Details: Open for dinner daily and weekend lunches | The Spurstowe Arms, 68 Greenwood Road, E8 1AB | Walk-ins only
Brat x Climpson’s Arch
Having Michelin-starred chefs cooking at a vibey, outdoor pop up in Hackney might seem like having your cake and eating it. But this is the al fresco annexe of Shoreditch hit restaurant Brat – and if anything, it plays to its strengths even more, with live fire cooking in a festoon-lit courtyard. The signature dish – whole-cooked turbot to share – is still on the menu, alongside crab with hay butter, wood-fired breads, and wild rabbit rice… READ MORE
Details: Open for dinner daily, plus weekend lunch | 374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, E8 3SB | Book here
Turo Turo (‘point point’ in Tagalog) is named after the Filipino fast food stalls where punters point at whatever they want to eat. On the menu, you’ll find charred aubergine with peanut and garlic soy glaze, BBQ chicken thigh with spiced vinegar butter, and 4-hour pineapple glazed pork belly. Warm up your pointing fingers now…
Details: Dinner daily, plus Saturday lunch, until 8th August | Farr’s School of Dancing, 17 – 19 Dalston Lane, E8 3DF
Filthy Buns (aka John & Debs) have extended their residency at Dalston’s 3 Compasses, where they’re cooking up ludicrously large, jaw-dislocating burgers. They’re all made with 45 day dry-aged beef from The Ginger Pig butchers, sandwiched in between brioche buns with outrageous bedfollows: this here is the Millionaire Short Rib, boosting that beef patty with beer-braised short rib, Swiss cheese & beer BBQ glaze, smoky gravy mayo and Biscoffy peanut butter.
Details: Open for dinner daily, plus lunch on weekends | The Three Compasses, 99 Dalston Lane, E8 1NH | Book here
Calling your restaurant Tacos Padre might sound like a pretty big claim. But when you’ve worked at Mexico City’s Pujol – currently ranked 12th on the World’s 50 Best list – it’s probably a fair one to make. After years of pop ups around the world, Nick Fitzgerald’s taqueria has landed a relatively permanent home in Borough Market Kitchen. Towards the end of the week, the festoon lighting fires up and the kitchen starts plating up beef short rib, chicken asado and cauliflower ‘al pastor’ tacos, alongside frozen margaritas and guest dishes like Michelada oysters.
Details: Taqueria Sat 12-5pm, dinner Thurs-Sat 6.30-10pm | The Borough Market Kitchen, Winchester Walk, Jubilee Place, SE1 5AG | Book here
Chase Lovecky at P.Franco
Lovecky’s brilliant Modern American joint, Two Lights, was one of the many restaurants that have had to permanently close up shop after the effects of the pandemic. But the good news is that you can now find the former Clove Club chef in residence at teeny weeny Hackney wine bar P.Franco, where he’s rustling up summery plates like chilled melon soup with almond cream; peas, girolles & potato ravioli; and something called Jesus saucisson. That’s right. Jesus sausage.
Details: Dinner Wed-Sun, plus Sat lunch | 107 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 0NP | Walk-ins only
Polo Lounge at The Dorchester
The Beverley Hills Hotel’s famous Polo Lounge has popped up on the rooftop of its sister hotel The Dorchester, bringing its signature candy pink stripes and bougainvilleas with it. Over the next two months, they’ll be serving a menu of Californian classics, including the house McCarthy salad (invented in the 60s for polo player and regular patron, Neil McCarthy) and their signature Paloma cocktail with prickly pear, all soundtracked by live music. And to answer the burning question on your lips, yes of course you can buy some souvenir sneakers and a luxury dog bed.
Details: Open daily for lunch and dinner throughout August | The Dorchester, Park Lane, London W1K 1QA | Book here
Guest Chefs at Carousel
Carousel’s taking you on quite the ride this month. First up, you’ll be able to catch Kerth Gumbs, whose supperclubs as part of the Made You Look series sold-out almost instantly. He’ll be serving up a brilliant menu of jerk wing skewers, slow-cooked trout with Vietnamese dressing, and paprika-glazed pork loin. It’ll be a tough act to follow, but if anyone can do it, it’s Gonzalo Luzarraga, who’s previewing his upcoming restaurant Mater with a star dish of seven year-aged beef.
Details: KG: 3rd-7th August, GL: 10th-21st August | 71 Blandford Street, W1U 8AB | KG set menu £55, book here
Joo Won at Bun House
At Bun House, buns are… well, their bread and butter. But just occasionally they like to mix things up… so this month, they’re inviting in Busan-born chef Joo Won to take over the first floor dining room. Former head chef of the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, and hot off the heels of his solo residency at Carousel, he’ll be serving a menu of South Korean and European-inspired sharing plates. Working with him in the kitchen will be his wife Sujin (a former pastry chef at The Wolseley), and the menu promises combos like kimchi and cheddar risotto, Joo’s Fried Chicken, and bulgogi made with three-day marinated beef.
Details: Open Tues-Sun for 2 months from 5th August | 26-27 Lisle Street, WC2H 7BA | Book here
Quo Vadis & Friends: Cynthia Shanmugalingam
The British-Sri Lankan chef is taking over the QV kitchens for one night only this month, as part of the ongoing QV & Friends series. Her cooking style, honed at her pop up, Rambutan, incorporates flavours that are both bold and fragrant – cinnamon, lemongrass, roasted chillies – and her menu here will be the first entirely vegan feast of the series.
Details: 18th August | Quo Vadis, 26 – 29 Dean Street, London W1D 3LL | £50pp – book here
Guest Residencies at Mortimer House
Private members’ club Mortimer House has been quietly building a name for itself as a residency hotspot. Pre-pandemic, it hosted the likes of Mei Mei’s Elizabeth Haigh and vegan Chinese resto Mao Chow. And over this summer, you’ll be able to catch a takeover from ‘guerilla chef’ Whyte Rushen, who’s serving oysters with pickled Monster Munch and a pudding inspired by an off licence; followed by 10 course omakase suppers and an experimental all-day brunch from Italo-Japanese spot Angelina; capped off with a visit from Norwich vegan restaurant The Gatherers. And thankfully you don’t have to be a member to book in.
Details: Whyte Rushen: 20th-22nd August | Angelina, The Gatherers: September | Mortimer House, 37-41 Mortimer Street, W1T 3JH | Book here
Nehmann at Corner Store
Ex-Le Manoir chef Drew Snaith has struck out on his own, and you’ll find the latest incarnation of Nehmann (ye olde English for neighbour, apparently) at Camberwell’s Corner Store. The theme is ‘hyper-seasonal’, so expect a lot of dishes – from lamb tongue nuggets to miso fudge sachertorte – to be passing through over the next five weeks.
Details: Wed-Fri, 6-9.30pm throughout August | 31 Peckham Road, SE5 8UH | Walk-ins only
Whole Beast at Kanpai
This pair met in the kitchens of Peckham’s Coal Rooms, and have since been popping up around the city with some very fine nose-to-tail cooking over a live fire. Currently, you can find them in residence at Peckham’s sake brewery, Kanpai, with smoked bone marrow and IPA onions, butter & beef dripping hash browns, and jerk goat sausage on the menu.
Details: Open Wed-Sun, check times here | Unit 2A-2 Copeland Park, 133 Copeland Road, Peckham Rye, SE15 3SN | Walk-ins only
Ling Ling at Tola
There’s a lot to like at Tola. The Peckham nightspot has a covered and heated roof terrace where you can tuck into Southeast Asian street food courtesy of Ling Ling (we’re talking Taiwanese Fried Chicken, wonton and sesame noodles) before slinking back inside for dancing and DJs.
Details: Daily dinner and weekend lunches throughout August | 56 Peckham High Street, SE15 5DP | Book here
Papa L’s Kitchen
After his time at The Ivy and Scott’s, Papa L – aka chef Lawrence Gomez – is taking the next logical step and opening his own place. This pop up restaurant is where he’s showcasing his own take on African fusion cuisine, combining the home cooking he grew up with in Gambia with the European culinary techniques he picked up in London’s restaurants. The result is a menu of mouthwatering dishes, from spiced plantain to BBQ lamb cutlets with Ma’s benachin rice (the national dish of Gambia).
Details: Dinner Wed-Sat, plus lunch Fri-Sat | 16-17 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LT | Book here
Piazza by the Pier
Wander down the Southbank towards London Bridge this summer, and you’ll find a little Mediterranean oasis perched right next to the river. Part of this little pop-up holiday is overseen by Jimmy Garcia (the ‘king of pop-ups’), whose team of pizzaioli are rustling up flame-scorched pizzas for you under the shade of a pergola. But he’s also giving you, ahem, a slice of the action with his Pizza Parties, where you and your group can indulge in a welcome cocktail and some antipasti before learning to make your own pizza (from stretching out the sourdough to using those big paddles to get it in and out the oven). And naturally, Nudge Members get a couple of free drinks to boot. READ MORE
Details: Pizza parties until 30th August | Piazza by the Pier, London City Pier, Hays Lane, SE1 2HB
Liu Xiaomian at The Jackalope
It takes a seasoned chef to get the level of spices right in a dish. Luckily, Liu Xiaomian has two. The duo behind the noodle outfit have won themselves queues round the block for their ‘spicy, numbing, addictive’ Chongqing cooking. And they’re settled into the kitchens at Marylebone pub The Jackalope for the near future, serving delicious, freshly made wonton, spicy noodles and slow-cooked pork with Chinese vegetables.
Details: Tues-Fri, 12-2.30pm & 6-9pm | The Jackalope, 43 Weymouth Mews, W1G 7EQ | Book here
Main image: Polo Lounge at the Dorchester