POP UP RESTAURANTS | October 2021
Welcome to the best of broth worlds: cult Cardiff ramen pop-up Matsudai has landed in London for the next few weeks, serving iekei style ramen that originated in Yokohama in the 70s. There’ll be a menu of those bowls with thick, wavy noodles as well as a rotating pick of sides and specials – like the garlic-laden Vampire Killer for Halloween.
Details: 21st October – 20th November, Thurs – Sat | BFI, 21 Stephen Street, Soho, London W1T 1LN
Tom Cenci at Stoney Street
Tom Cenci’s residency at this Borough restaurant was originally scheduled to last three months. That was back in October 2020. And when he’s serving up dishes like this pine cone-shaped baked alaska, it’s easy to see why he’s been asked to stick around. The rest of the menu hops from pot-sticker dumplings to smashed cheeseburger and sweetcorn crumpet, and it’s all delicious.
Details: Wed-Sat nights | Stoney Street, 2-3 Stoney Street, London SE1 9AA | Walk-ins only
Tendril at The Sun & 13 Cantons
Tendril’s won itself legions of fans over the past few years, and it seems to have found itself a semi-permanent home down in Soho. Former Chiltern Firehouse and The Dairy chef Rishim Sachdeva is busting out a mostly-vegan, all-veggie menu borrowing from cuisines around the world, with dishes ranging from roast cauliflower with XO sauce and cacao nibs; massaman curry with acorn squash and coconut; and ratatouille with a little ras el hanout.
Details: Throughout August | 21 Great Pulteney St, Soho, London W1F 9NG | Book here
Hot 4 U at The Prince Arthur
Eddy Tejada and Matthew Scott are Hot 4 U, something they’d like to demonstrate with their unbelievably delicious residency menu at Dalston pub The Prince Arthur. The menu changes all the time, but you can expect dishes along the lines of tempura elderflower, peri-peri guinea fowl to share, and Ya Mum’s Pavlova. READ MORE
Details: Open for lunch and dinner daily | 95 Forest Road, E8 3BH | Book here
GROUND at the Spurstowe Arms
Could it be…? Burgers that actually reduce carbon emissions? GROUND aren’t just full of hot air; their meat is sourced from The Ethical Butcher, who do a lot of Medieval-sounding things like crop rotation to allow land to recover from cattle farming and actually take carbon out of the atmosphere. Oh, and we should also probably mention that the burgers are absolutely delicious. READ MORE
Details: Open for dinner daily and weekend lunches | The Spurstowe Arms, 68 Greenwood Road, E8 1AB | Walk-ins only
Brat x Climpson’s Arch
Having Michelin-starred chefs cooking at a vibey, outdoor pop up in Hackney might seem like having your cake and eating it. But this is the al fresco annexe of Shoreditch hit restaurant Brat – and if anything, it plays to its strengths even more, with live fire cooking in a festoon-lit courtyard. The signature dish – whole-cooked turbot to share – is still on the menu, alongside crab with hay butter, wood-fired breads, and wild rabbit rice… READ MORE
Details: Open for dinner daily, plus weekend lunch | 374 Helmsley Place, Hackney, E8 3SB | Book here
Filthy Buns (aka John & Debs) have extended their residency at Dalston’s 3 Compasses, where they’re cooking up ludicrously large, jaw-dislocating burgers. They’re all made with 45 day dry-aged beef from The Ginger Pig butchers, sandwiched in between brioche buns with outrageous bedfollows: this here is the Millionaire Short Rib, boosting that beef patty with beer-braised short rib, Swiss cheese & beer BBQ glaze, smoky gravy mayo and Biscoffy peanut butter.
Details: Open for dinner daily, plus lunch on weekends | The Three Compasses, 99 Dalston Lane, E8 1NH | Book here
Calling your restaurant Tacos Padre might sound like a pretty big claim. But when you’ve worked at Mexico City’s Pujol – currently ranked 12th on the World’s 50 Best list – it’s probably a fair one to make. After years of pop ups around the world, Nick Fitzgerald’s taqueria has landed a relatively permanent home in Borough Market Kitchen. Towards the end of the week, the festoon lighting fires up and the kitchen starts plating up beef short rib, chicken asado and cauliflower ‘al pastor’ tacos, alongside frozen margaritas and guest dishes like Michelada oysters.
Details: Taqueria Sat 12-5pm, dinner Thurs-Sat 6.30-10pm | The Borough Market Kitchen, Winchester Walk, Jubilee Place, SE1 5AG | Book here
Chase Lovecky at P.Franco
Lovecky’s brilliant Modern American joint, Two Lights, was one of the many restaurants that have had to permanently close up shop after the effects of the pandemic. But the good news is that you can now find the former Clove Club chef in residence at teeny weeny Hackney wine bar P.Franco, where he’s rustling up summery plates like chilled melon soup with almond cream; peas, girolles & potato ravioli; and something called Jesus saucisson. That’s right. Jesus sausage.
Details: Dinner Wed-Sun, plus Sat lunch | 107 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 0NP | Walk-ins only
Joo Won at Bun House
At Bun House, buns are… well, their bread and butter. But just occasionally they like to mix things up… so this month, they’re inviting in Busan-born chef Joo Won to take over the first floor dining room. Former head chef of the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, and hot off the heels of his solo residency at Carousel, he’ll be serving a menu of South Korean and European-inspired sharing plates. Working with him in the kitchen will be his wife Sujin (a former pastry chef at The Wolseley), and the menu promises combos like kimchi and cheddar risotto, Joo’s Fried Chicken, and bulgogi made with three-day marinated beef.
Details: Open Tues-Sun for 2 months from 5th August | 26-27 Lisle Street, WC2H 7BA | Book here
Nehmann at Corner Store
Ex-Le Manoir chef Drew Snaith has struck out on his own, and you’ll find the latest incarnation of Nehmann (ye olde English for neighbour, apparently) at Camberwell’s Corner Store. The theme is ‘hyper-seasonal’, so expect a lot of dishes – from lamb tongue nuggets to miso fudge sachertorte – to be passing through over the next five weeks.
Details: Wed-Fri, 6-9.30pm throughout August | 31 Peckham Road, SE5 8UH | Walk-ins only
Whole Beast at Kanpai
This pair met in the kitchens of Peckham’s Coal Rooms, and have since been popping up around the city with some very fine nose-to-tail cooking over a live fire. Currently, you can find them in residence at Peckham’s sake brewery, Kanpai, with smoked bone marrow and IPA onions, butter & beef dripping hash browns, and jerk goat sausage on the menu.
Details: Open Wed-Sun, check times here | Unit 2A-2 Copeland Park, 133 Copeland Road, Peckham Rye, SE15 3SN | Walk-ins only
Ling Ling at Tola
There’s a lot to like at Tola. The Peckham nightspot has a covered and heated roof terrace where you can tuck into Southeast Asian street food courtesy of Ling Ling (we’re talking Taiwanese Fried Chicken, wonton and sesame noodles) before slinking back inside for dancing and DJs.
Details: Daily dinner and weekend lunches throughout August | 56 Peckham High Street, SE15 5DP | Book here
Papa L’s Kitchen
After his time at The Ivy and Scott’s, Papa L – aka chef Lawrence Gomez – is taking the next logical step and opening his own place. This pop up restaurant is where he’s showcasing his own take on African fusion cuisine, combining the home cooking he grew up with in Gambia with the European culinary techniques he picked up in London’s restaurants. The result is a menu of mouthwatering dishes, from spiced plantain to BBQ lamb cutlets with Ma’s benachin rice (the national dish of Gambia).
Details: Dinner Wed-Sat, plus lunch Fri-Sat | 16-17 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LT | Book here
Liu Xiaomian at The Jackalope
It takes a seasoned chef to get the level of spices right in a dish. Luckily, Liu Xiaomian has two. The duo behind the noodle outfit have won themselves queues round the block for their ‘spicy, numbing, addictive’ Chongqing cooking. And they’re settled into the kitchens at Marylebone pub The Jackalope for the near future, serving delicious, freshly made wonton, spicy noodles and slow-cooked pork with Chinese vegetables.
Details: Tues-Fri, 12-2.30pm & 6-9pm | The Jackalope, 43 Weymouth Mews, W1G 7EQ | Book here