Chishuru

NOTE: Chishuru has now closed in this location. Don’t despair though – it’ll be reopening in a bigger location in 2023. Stay tuned…

Brixton Village has a rather novel way of helping out talented up-and-coming chefs who aspire to open their own restaurant.

They give them a restaurant.

Only the up-and-coming-est of the lot, mind you – they can’t go giving out eateries willly nilly. They have a designated space in Brixton Market which they give over for around six months at a time to the winners of their Brixton Village competition. Previously in that space was the wonderful Sarap, and now that that’s a wrap, they’ve handed the keys to chef Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare.

She’s Nigerian-born, and she’s been cooking up West African classics using modern techniques for her own supperclub, Chishuru, for a few months now. Joining the ranks of of innovators like Chuku’s, she’s hoping to help popularise some of the elegant West African dishes that she grew up with.

Those dishes include the likes of whole grilled snapper, scorched sesame chicken, and a slow-cooked goat shoulder with spiced green sauce. You’ll also find a groundnut soup with chargrilled cauliflower in spiced peanut butter sauce, and some Waina (that is, fermented rice balls) served with a squash, peanut and tamarind sauce. And for dessert? How about some baobab fruit mousse with peanut ice cream, all washed down with a peppery uda-spiced date negroni.

It’s all served in the form of a very reasonably priced set menu (£45 for seven dishes at dinner, £23 for two courses at lunch), which changes every now and again to keep things fresh.

Take a gander for yourself, and see why she won that award.

Chishuru | 9 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane, Brixton, London, SW9 8LB

In case you’re looking for a bar for before or after… The Shrub & Shutter is a good shout.