NOTE: Jago has sadly now closed.
After a 150 year hiatus – during which London built the tube system; the Wright Brothers took flight; Einstein theorised relativity; Russia launched Sputnik; and you were born – a beacon of Jewish culinary heritage now once again graces the East End.
Behold Jago, an Ashkenazi eating house brought to you by Hugo Thurston (previously General Manager at Morito) and ex-Ottolenghi chef Louis Solley, which is apparently the first restaurant in London to be based on the architectural concept of “biophilia”. Which sounds like an STD, but is actually a design revolution that connects buildings to the natural world… and has resulted in Jago’s striking appearance. Basically, it looks like the inside of a greenhouse filled with plants, natural light, curved glass, wood and pewter walls everything.
Being based just off Brick Lane, you may be interested to learn that Jago’s named after the East End slum in Arthur Morrisson’s book “A Child Of The Jago”, an area which – in the 19th Century – was known for its bars, thieves and prostitutes.
And still is.
However you’ll probably be more interested to know that Chef Solley’s menu lovingly reflects Spitalfields’ rich history as a welcoming home to London’s immigrants, drawing – as it does – on the culinary heritage of the Ashkenazi diaspora to offer up all day, modern Jewish fare with both Southern European and Middle Eastern influences. Dishes include pickled herring; veal cheek goulash; grilled mackerel with apple and walnuts; salt beef & chrain; and toasted rice pudding with rhubarb compote.
And if you feel like drinking while you eat – which you possibly will – then you’ll also find a concise list of classic cocktails, a small selection of local craft beers and carafes of wine from small, independent wineries in both Spain and the South Of France.
Jago | 68 – 80 Hanbury Street, E1 5JL
Like unusual restaurants? Check out our excellent guide to the best unusual restaurants in London.
68 - 80 Hanbury Street, Spitalfields, East London, E1 5JL
7.3 | Good
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