Jason Allen 12/12/22
Lulu’s | Deli by day, wine bar by night
Lulu’s has arrived in South London.
And despite the name, it’s very much a win-win.
It’s the latest project from the team behind Llewelyn’s over in Herne Hill which, as far as neighbourhood restaurants go, is about as beloved as they come. So they’ve opened this sibling venue on the corner literally right next door. And Lulu’s is a cosy little space. The walls are lined all sorts of beautifully branded produce; there’s a small open kitchen at the back; and big windows to splash light on the shiny resin wood fittings.
By day, Lulu’s is a casual deli & shop, before transforming into an elegant little wine bar & restaurant by night. That means you can drop in at breakfast for a pastry or a bagel, and at lunchtime for a zingy salad, or a hearty sandwich ranging from a slab of ciabatta loaded with mortadella, pistachio & rocket, to some Wildfarmed sourdough clasping roasted carrots, sunflower seed and chimichurri.
Then, as the sun dips below the horizon, the counter is cleared, candles are lit and the dinner menu is served. It’s the work of chef Danish Lasse Petersen, whose CV includes stints at Copenhagen’s Amass (‘the world’s most sustainable restaurant’), the excellent Westerns Laundry, and the cult classic Moro. Here, he’s cooking up the likes of beef tartare with pickled Jerusalem artichoke on toast; clams with Alsace bacon, Pernod & fennel; and Parisian gnocchi with wild mushrooms and Perigord truffle.
The wine list is pretty eye-opening too, with bottles from Slovenia, Georgia, Beaujolais and Tuscany happily commingling alongside some cocktails (including a Martini made with orange marmalade) and a simple Suze & tonic.
Of course, once you’re finished, since Lulu’s is also a deli, you can take to those shelves and pack your bags with enough ingredients to make your own meal again at home – everything from jars of house-made smoky pickled carrots, to cheeses from Neal’s Yard, vegetables from Shrub Farm, and Pump Street chocolate.
Like we said, win-win.
NOTE: Lulu’s is open now, as a shop Tues- Sun and a wine bar Wed-Sat. It’s walk in only – you can find out more HERE.
Lulu’s | 291 Railton Road, SE24 0JP
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291 Railton Road, Herne Hill, SE24 0JP
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020 7733 8012
8.9 | Great
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