In the ruthless scramble for the crown of London’s best new pub, we have a Dark Horse contender.
Just opened in Camden Market, it comes to us from the same team who also run Le Bab, and the esteemed Kebab Queen. Sure, it feels like a bit of a sideways move for them, being that it involves neither kebabs, nor secret underground chef’s tables. But it’s still driven by nostalgia and ultimately, fun. The idea is to create something that resembles the platonic ideal of a pub – live music, simple & satisfying food, and great drinks. And they appear to be succeeding.
You’ll find it right at the end of the Market, where it anchors its own courtyard space – in fact, the place will really come into its own during the water months, when the huge front doors (as well as a pair on the side) are opened right up, spilling out into the open air. For now, you push past a pair of gigantic, double-height insulated curtains to walk in. It almost feels theatrical, as if you’re wondering backstage.
Inside, everything is made of wood or brick, with pleasing little corrugated arches in the ceiling, and a beautiful wooden floor running the length of the two main spaces. The walls are covered with music memorabilia, posters, and photos (all originals, and some captured mere yards away), and there’s a small stage where they’ll have regular live acts.
As for the food? Well, the driving forces here are nostalgia & simplicity. They’re aiming to create the best possible version of the pub classics of yore – pies, fish & chips, Sunday roasts, etc. – by focusing on ingredients. This is an old-school pub menu, and there’s “not a burrata in sight.” To execute it, they’ve enlisted the help of chef Manu Canales, the man who helped make Kebab Queen such a creative standout. He’s overseeing the menu, with standouts like the Welsh rarebit and the intensely flavour-packed, beef shin-filled cottage pie.
As well as the pub space, they’ve also got a vast upstairs venue with plans to host full bands playing live gigs in a couple of months.
It’s called the Dark Horse, but it’s an easy bet.
NOTE: The Dark Horse is open now, seven days a week. You can find out more, and make a booking at the Dark Horse website.
The Dark Horse | 87/88 North Yard, Camden Stables Market, Chalk Farm Road NW1 8AH
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