If you’ve never had Greek-Australian fusion food – and we’re going to guess that’s most of you – now’s your chance. Because that’s exactly what essi is serving up at their new long-term residency at The Adam & Eve pub in Homerton.
essi is the creation of Greek-born, Australian-raised restaurateur Kostas Vais. He’s one of those larger-than-life characters who radiates an infectious enthusiasm for his food, and he initially brought this unconventional-yet-delicious culinary mashup to life at a pop up in (the dearly departed) TT Liquor. And, as it the ephemeral nature of pop ups, it had to find a new home eventually. And lo-and-behold, it has.
He’s now settled into The Adam & Eve’s freshly revamped dining room – stylishly rejigged while preserving the pub’s original features – now plays host to a sit-down restaurant experience neatly tucked away from the bar itself. The space is extremely easy on the eyes, the dark wood paneling gives it both a warmth & a sense of history, while the mustard-yellow tufted banquette adds a modern pop of colour that keeps it all from feeling too heavy.
essi’s menu is a love letter to ingredient-led cooking, blending British seasonal produce with a curated selection of Australian herbs and spices like lemon myrtle and forest anise. Highlights include the saganaki toastie, layered with rainforest lime, ghee, and thyme; white tarama with crispy potato skins; and osso bucco bites served with avocado feta dip and pickled onions. Traditional Greek favourites get a modern twist, like the spanakopita, made with xigalo sour cheese and spinach, served with a herb salad.
For mains, the twice fire-cooked lamb ribs with olive oil mash are a standout, alongside the octopus bolognese, slow-cooked with Australian bush tomato and desert dust spice blend, served with pasta. The coal-charred aubergine with pomegranate, fried peanuts, and tahini is a smoky vegetarian beauty, while the fish of the day comes with garlic-laden skordalia.
Sundays at essi are a celebration of Greek fire cooking, served in a roast dinner format. Whether it’s pork shoulder, Suffolk lamb, chicken thighs, or BBQ mushrooms, everything is slow-cooked over a charcoal spit and served with all the trimmings: roast potatoes, pumpkin, tzatziki, and Aegean slaw, finished with lemon and oregano gravy.
Which, let’s face it, makes it a British-Australian-Greek fusion. And we’re guessing that until now, no-one’s had that.
NOTE: essi is popping up in The Adam & Eve for the foreseeable. You can find out more, and book a table at the Adam & Eve website.
The Adam & Eve | 155 Homerton High St, E9 6AS
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