45 Jermyn St. | Piccadilly Circus
As a hub for high-end tailoring and gentlemen’s clothing, fine dining hasn’t always been Jermyn Street’s strongest suit.
But that’s all changed since Fortnum & Mason rejigged their old restaurant, The Fountain, and replaced it with the decadent 45 Jermyn St., promising dining “inspired by the golden age of glamour”.
The burnt orange and pistachio colour scheme of the interior already looks good enough to eat – but obviously don’t, because 1) we’re only talking metaphorically, and 2) you’d spoil your appetite, which is much better sated with –
Glorious, gluttonous, old-school feasting. You can take your pick from starters like grilled bone marrow, pine-nut crusted scallops with bottarga butter and octopus with chorizo, before moving onto red deer with salsify, champagne risotto and roast rabbit with olives and capers. The prize for the most ridiculously ostentatious dish goes (unsurprisingly) to the caviar, which involves someone wheeling a trolley up to your table, measuring it out on a set of scales and then whipping up a bowl of scrambled eggs on a mini portable stove.
Yes, there’s a black forest baked alaska. Yes, there’s a chocolate and orange soufflé. But unfortunately, you won’t be trying either of those, because your attention will immediately be drawn to the fact that they serve ice cream floats. Except this is a super fancy place, so rather than coke and carte d’or, it’s luxuriant combinations like brown butter syrup, bourbon, soda and cornflake ice cream.
Which consist of an overflowing wine list, champagne cocktails and a selection of apéritif sodas; an homage to the er, ‘Soda Jerks’ who once operated London’s first soda fountain on the very same site. They even arrive with little pipettes so you can flavour it to your own tastes.
Meaning, rather appropriately, that your drinks are tailor-made.
NOTE: 45 Jermyn St. is now open from breakfast till midnight Mon-Sat, and till 6pm on Sundays.
45 Jermyn St. | 45 Jermyn St. SW1Y 6DN