In 2021, A. Wong became the first Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to win two Michelin stars.
And for those of you who haven’t immediately booked a table and are still reading, you’ll find it – somewhat unexpectedly – in Pimlico, doing the heavy-lifting for an area that’s not exactly packed with eateries.
The location is an intrinsic part of this restaurant, however. It’s the site of Kym’s, the Cantonese eatery Andrew Wong’s parents Albert & Annie ran as he grew up. While studying at university, Wong began helping his mother out in the restaurant and taking evening cookery classes. He began to feel more and more strongly that China’s cuisine could be represented more authentically here, beyond anglicised prawn toast and crispy seaweed. So he set off on a half-year tour across the length and breadth of China, returning giddy and eager to share with us the regional treasures he unearthed along the way.
It’s not just the proximity to offices that make A. Wong a busy spot at lunchtime: this is when you can order from the dim sum menu. Each item is priced individually – this means flavour hopscotch for enthusiastic foodies, and a notice to order in bulk for people who know what they like and are sticking to it. We would, however, encourage you to try the former approach. You’re advised to order 8-10 pieces each, which could be a clear shrimp dumpling served with a rice vinegar cloud, light and crisp salt & pepper French bean fritters, or the remarkable ‘999 layered’ scallop puff with XO oil. If the choice paralysis is overwhelming, you can leave it up to chef to put together a bespoke selection for your table.
Come for dinner, and you’ll share larger plates like Xi’an-style lamb burgers, Cantonese honey-roasted pork or cherry-smoked Peking duck pancakes (kept on the menu here as evidence of how Chinese food continues to evolve, even here in the UK). But the showpiece here is Wong’s Taste of China menu, which takes you on a culinary excursion across the country’s different provinces, with influences from its 14 international borders. You’ll enjoy Zhou dynasty cured scallop piled into crab claws; silky tofu from the street stalls of Chengdu; steamed dumplings from Shanghai and barbecued sweetcorn from the Forbidden City. The front of house team, headed up by Wong’s wife Nathalie, are brilliant, and introduce each dish with its backstory (which can make eyes roll at other restaurants; here it’s enlightening). You can cap it all off with a ‘Postcard from Yunnan’, which combines the regional specialities of black truffle and chocolate with banana and glutinous pistachio ice cream.
It’s got your name written all over it.
NOTE: A. Wong is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday – Saturday. You can find out more, and make a booking, HERE.
A. Wong | 70 Wilton Road, Pimlico, London SW1V 1DE
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