Albers has pulled off something remarkably special.
It’s just cut the ribbon in De Beauvoir town, courtesy of founder Scott Pattinson, and it’s a venue that wears a lot of hats – it’s an old fashioned cafe for breakfast, a speedy lunch spot, a relaxed & vibey dinner place, and more. And yet, not only does it not drown in all these identities, it pulls them all together into an impressive whole, and somehow absolutely nails each one.
Head inside, and you’ll immediately be greeted by an attention-grabbing flower arrangement presiding over a coffee counter strewn with fresh, fluffy pastries. The space is light, airy, and seeped in both Scandi-style simplicity and homespun warmth. All of the furnishings were made by co-owner Luke, all of the tapestries adorning the walls were hand-woven by the manager Elouise, and all of the tables come with an actual, physical newspaper or magazine to flip through (and thus you’ll notice a conspicuous lack of phones being glued to faces). But perhaps its best feature is the huge expanse of windows punching through the far wall, which lets in the most captivatingly glorious sunsets in the summer months.
The kitchen is being helmed by the power duo of head chef Izzy Wallace (ex-Jolene) and sous chef Alistair Walling (ex-Noble Rot). Together, they’re rustling up out regularly changing all-day menus of just four or five dishes at a time, meaning they can properly master each one. There are zhuzhed-up cafe style staples, including ham, egg & chips – a classic elevated with thick slabs of perfectly cooked ham with a delicious caramelised crust, and a bright orange fried egg. But if you want something more upscale, there are dishes like butterflied mackerel with charred beans, fresh cucumber, kohlrabi, and radish salad, topped with dill and a dollop of zesty vadouvan sauce – it’s simply conceived, and perfectly executed.
To drink, there’s a similarly concise menu of cocktails, with just 4/5 at a time, with the standout being their negroni, which weighs in at just a fiver (and tastes like it ought to cost at least double that).
Oh, and the name? It’s in honour of the owner’s dog, who in turn is named after the artist Josef Albers who, by coincidence, also made his own furniture.
And he probably would have loved this place.
NOTE: Albers is open for breakfast, lunch & dinner Thurs-Sat, from 9am-4pm on Sunday, and 8am-3pm on Tues & Weds. You can find out more, and make a booking at the Albers Website.
Albers | 23A Englefield Rd, London N1 4JX
Want to meet the neighbours? Here are the best restaurants in Dalston