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Restaurants

Jason Allen 30/01/25


Aragawa

Preparing for a visit to Aragawa, you will likely go through the following emotional journey:

Things start with the slightly cynical assumption that surely it can’t be as good as it’s being hyped, which will be replaced by the sudden realisation that oh good lord, it is that good, which will be followed by the slight twinge of regret that now all subsequent steaks will be slightly ruined by the laughably unfair comparison, which will ultimately give way to the inevitable realisation that this is so many leagues above those steaks, it’s in a different realm entirely, so it’s all okay.

Or maybe that was just us.

In either case, this is an expensive piece of beef. London is no stranger to eye-wateringly pricey restaurants, but even among its glittering elite, Aragawa stands apart. Tucked away in Mayfair, this Japanese steakhouse is the first international outpost of the now-legendary Tokyo original, and it operates with an almost monastic devotion to quality. No gimmicks, no unnecessary flourishes, just some of the finest steak on the planet, cooked with a quiet confidence that leaves no room for doubt.

The setting is pure old-school elegance. Rich red upholstery, warm wood panelling, and a latticework ceiling that bathes the room in a soft, golden glow. There are only 10 or so place settings laid out among four impeccably dressed, starched white-clothed tables. But let’s get to the reason you’re here: the beef.

You’ll be treated to a preview of the exceptional protein by the immaculate waitstaff, and talked through it all by the supremely knowledgeable General Manager Stephen Williams – and what you’ll see is a collection of gorgeously marbled cuts worthy of a fine art gallery. Aragawa’s speciality is Tajima-gyu, a rare, meticulously bred variety of Wagyu that undergoes an almost religious selection process. Only a handful of cattle make the cut, and by the time it reaches your plate, it has been nurtured, massaged, and fed an elite diet for years.

Once you’ve selected your cut, it’ll then be cooked to preference by their maestro Kazuo Imayoshi, who attends the oven with a calm intensity, scorching and adjusting the meat with his hand-made skewers (which he crafted from piano wires) with the measured precision of a surgeon. He literally listens to the flames to properly gauge the cooking process. There are no elaborate marinades or unnecessary theatrics. The beef is simply seasoned and grilled over binchotan charcoal, a method that amplifies its natural umami while preserving its purity.

The result is bovine gold, a steak that barely requires a knife, its marbling dissolving into a near-buttery texture with a depth of flavour that makes other cuts seem like boot leather. The first bite is revelatory; the rest of the meal confirms it wasn’t a fluke.

The menu has other respectable distractions, acting as prelude for the main event, including a thick wedge of beautifully smoked salmon (a speciality at the Tokyo original since it opened decades ago), some delicate snow crab salad, a nourishing cup of consommé made from the beef you’re about to eat, and more. And you can naturally pair it all with some of the finest wines in an area famous for its fine wines. But it’s all an entourage for the star.

It isn’t cheap, but you’ll be replaying each bite in your mind for as long as you posess tastebuds.

 

NOTE: Aragawa is open now, Tuesday to Saturday. You can find out more, and make a booking at the Aragawa website.

Aragawa | 38 Clarges St, W1J 7EN


Want to meet the *so-called* competition? Here are the other best steakhouses in London.


Aragawa


38 Clarges St, Mayfair, Central London, W1J 7EN

9.1 | Amazing