Hattie Lloyd 07/01/22
Berners Tavern | Gilded Fitzrovia Restaurant From Jason Atherton
Just as the phrase “Location, location, location” neatly sums up the ingredients of a good property, the following sums up the requisite parts of a great restaurant –
“Chandelier. Atmosphere. Michelin-starred executive chef serving a vast menu of modern European brasserie cooking”.
Coincidentally, Berners Tavern at The London Edition Hotel fits that description to a tee.
First, a little context. The London Edition comes from the man who is credited with co-creating the first ’boutique hotel’, Ian Schrager – which explains the hotel’s nonchalant blend of turn-of-the-century architecture with striking, uber-modern artwork. He is also, appositely, the man who co-founded Studio 54 – which explains Berners Tavern.
Impressively grand from the moment you enter, Berners Tavern is like something out of an Edwardian film: a baroque ballroom with deep moulded ceilings, thick gold framed art covering every inch of its truffle-hued walls, and a gilded chandelier centrepiece the size of an upturned tree.
To your right as you enter, there’s the bar area, with tables and chairs dotted around the nucleus of a huge, imposing, backlit bar stacked with all manner of unique and classic spirits, which the ‘tenders will happily whip into a pre-dinner whistle-wetter, like the Precious Jewels (with rye whisky, sencha green tea, Champagne cordial and elderflower). It is, quite simply, glorious-looking.
Equally well decorated is the kitchen – or rather, who’s in it. This is renowned chef Jason Atherton’s sixth addition to his UK restaurant group (and fifteenth addition globally), which includes Michelin-starred spots City Social and Pollen Street Social. Berners Tavern takes all the cumulative knowledge from his previous culinary ventures, and exponentially amplifies it.
The theme is anything a) Modern European, and b) delicious – and, being an all day affair, you can stop by for breakfast, Sunday roasts, speedy lunches, afternoon tea or a leisurely dinner. Variously, they offer dishes like roasted sweet potato, halloumi, and poached eggs on Borough Market sourdough; chargrilled octopus, smoked cod’s roe, treviso and chicory salad with Grenobloise sauce; BBQ Dingley Dell pork chops with roasted hispi cabbage and chimichurri dressing; and of course expertly-crafted versions of classic dishes like mac and cheese. And to accompany all this? An extensive list of over 70 wines, and a visit from the tableside Champagne trolley.
But yeah. Michelin star-level mac and cheese.
NOTE: Berners Tavern is open daily, 7am-midnight. You can reserve a table, or find out more, right HERE.
Berners Tavern | The London Edition Hotel, 10 Berners Street, W1T 3LF
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The London Edition Hotel, 10 Berners Street, Fitzrovia, Central London, W1T 3LF
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020 7908 7979
8.5 | Great
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