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Hattie Lloyd 27/11/19

Bistro Union

Trinity, and its upstairs restaurant, Upstairs, are some of Clapham’s best restaurants.

And now that they’ve opened Bistro Union, they’ve finally got the literal trinity, too.

Tucked deeper into the residential backstreets of Clapham (known as Abbeville Village), it’s a real neighbourhood restaurant. It serves food of the same calibre as Trinity, but in heftier portions you don’t have to look remotely dainty while snaffling through.

The interiors here are jaunty in spite of their modesty. The bar up front is pub-like, with colourful subway tiling and copper draught taps. The stools were probably reclaimed from whichever school science lab was holding them hostage. Tables are set with no-frills napkins, and a brown paper tablecloth (crayons on request). It’s pared back, but warm, just as any local bistro should be.

bistro union

Under the watch of chef-patron Adam Byatt, Bistro Union shares its siblings’ seasonal philosophy. That means cosy autumnal dishes like partridge and pear tree terrine, Jerusalem artichoke soup, and pan-roast pork chop with stuffed prunes and turnip – which give way to potted shrimp, grilled white runner beans, and orange & Campari granita come summer. Then there’s the Sunday Roast – a decadent three-courser with pies, tarts, pork belly and sirloin, culminating in something outrageous like lavender cheesecake or chocolate cremosa – for a neat £32.

They’re just as serious about wine here, too, with plenty by the glass (starting at £4), carafe or bottle, including ‘chef’s cellar wines’ – premium numbers nicked from Trinity (and priced down) that they want to share with you.

But you should totally keep them for yourself.


NOTE: Bistro Union is open for lunch Thurs-Sun (12-4pm) and dinner Wed-Sat (6-9pm). You can find out more, and book a table, HERE.

Bistro Union | 40 Abbeville Road, Clapham, London SW4 9NG

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Bistro Union

40 Abbeville Road, Clapham, SW4 9NG
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0207 042 6400

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