There’s a beautiful, low-key confidence to a restaurant name like ‘Canteen’ which makes you think the place is set up to both underpromise and overdeliver.
Well, either that, or they serve lunch on plastic trays.
Thankfully, this place is firmly in the former camp, and it’s an absolute diamond. No surprise really, given that it comes to us from the same consistently great team behind The Pelican in Notting Hill.
In fact, Canteen sits not-at-all-coincidentally directly around the corner from said excellent gastropub on the upper stretch of Portobello. Wander past, and you’ll likely see the place buzzing with customers through its large steel-framed windows, in that kind of low hum of excitement that draws you in without really trying.
Inside it’s lively, loud and bustling, giving off that ‘something cool is happening here’ energy thanks to the constant, giddy hum of chatter and an ear-catching soundtrack. There are no bookings, so the person at the door will casually let you know how long you’ll be waiting (and they’ll give you a ring if you want to wander down to Portobello market).
The space itself gives off a charming deli-chic vibe thanks to steel countertops, glass cabinets stocked with preserves & cured meats, and aperitifs doing the rounds between rows of canary-yellow seating, all carried bye waiting staff who glide around wearing pristine white aprons. It’s casual yes, but there’s a certain polish to it too.
At the back you’ll see the sizeable open kitchen wherein the (largely female) chef crew pull off their simple culinary wizardry. The menu is Italian, and switches up every few weeks, so don’t get too attached to your favourites. You’ll currently find some unbelievably moreish, girolles with silky coco beans, as well as a rich leek, pancetta & goat cheese pizza; some hearty duck ragu with gnocchi; and a satisfyingly crisp serving of porchetta with charred fennel.
And for dessert? Get the chocolate mousse, if it’s on.
It may sound humble, but boy does that overdeliver.
NOTE: Canteen is open for lunch daily, and dinner on weekdays. There are no bookings, but you can check out their Insta page, or shoot them an email.
Canteen | 310 Portobello Road, W10 5TA
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