Jason Allen 15/04/22
Coming across Kindred for the first time is slightly surreal.
Walk out of Hammersmith Broadway shopping centre (from the side exit on the west) and hemmed in by the modern steel & glass structures beside it, as well as the busy road wrapping around it, you’ll find a small courtyard overlooked by a huge Georgian mansion. It’s called Bradmore House, it was built in the 1700s, and it couldn’t really feel more out of place. It almost feels like you’ve stumbled across some kind of secret.
If you were to wander up one of the curved stone staircases leading to the main entrance, you’d find yourself inside Kindred. Which is a private members club, and therefore something to bear in mind before you actually do indulge yourself in said wandering inside. It was founded by a former social worker named Anna Anderson who wanted an inclusive space (yes, that’s deeply ironic for a private members club) to help people struggling with isolation. And that was before the pandemic.
On the ground floor, underneath the main club space, is Cellar. This is the restaurant, and it’s open to everyone. Which actually is quite an inclusive move. The space itself is a stark contrast to the building’s grand and elegant exterior: cool industrial concrete is softened by warm wooden furnishings, leather seats, and flashes of greenery sprinkled throughout. The best seats in the house, though, are probably in one of the curved booths parked next to the kitchen, daintily cupped by two shelves-worth of wine.
The food is all being overseen by uberchef Andrew Clarke (He’s responsible for places like Acme Fire Cult, Brunswick House, St Leonard’s, etc) who’s put together the menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. And it’s dinner where it really shines. Standouts include a Korean-style Dexter beef tartare buried under a satisfying mound of crunchy straw chips; a hearty celeriac schnitzel decorated with wild mushrooms and garlic butter; crispy little ox cheek puffs dipped in tamarind ketchup; a delicate grilled cheese toastie with leek-top kimchi, and a Tamworth pork chop dressed in a glorious ‘sauce charcutière’ of herbs, bacon, cornichons, and white wine.
Those wine shelves are put to good use with a well-curated selection of, well, wines (plus a bottle of sweet ‘ice cider’), and you can also get yourself some Two Tribes craft beers on tap & bottle, annnnd a couple of all-important cocktails – The Regency Rhubarb Punch involves pineapple rum, spiced rhubarb liqueur, and a dash of green tea.
And who know, you may even find a couple of Kindred spirits, too.
NOTE: Cellar at Kindred opened on April 12th. It’s open to all, not just members of the club. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right here.
Kindred | Bradmore House, Queen Caroline St, W6 9BW
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Bradmore House, Queen Caroline St, Hammersmith, W6 9BW
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