Jason Allen 04/09/18
Coal Office | Exceptional Middle Eastern Dishes
If you’ve been to either The Palomar or The Barbary, both of which were originally headed by Assaf Granit, then you’ll need no convincing that he’s one of the best chefs in the capital.
Or that Coal Office, his latest opening, is one of the best restaurants in North London. Because frankly, it is.
You’ll find it in King’s Cross, where it’s been playing a key part in transforming the former restaurant wilderness just north of the station (now occupied by Coal Drops Yard & Granary Square) into a thriving culinary hub.
Baby it’s Coal outside
That space has been designed by Tom Dixon and is, believe it or not, typically Tom Dixoney with millimetre-perfect exposed fittings sitting alongside gleaming translucent silver lampshades polished so finely they almost look liquid. There are two floors, both with a little outdoor space on the terrace & the roof. And as a bonus? All of the tableware is available to buy from the attached Tom Dixon shop.
As for Assaf Granit’s role in this whole deal, well, he’s creating even prettier things to put onto that tableware thanks to his typically inventive Middle Eastern menu. And as for the head chef tasked with putting it all together? Well, while acting as judge on Israel’s answer to MasterChef, Granit witnessed the spectacular talents of Dan Pelles. As soon as the competition ended, he whisked him over to London to run his kitchen.
But before we get to the food, you might want to kicking things off with a cocktail – there are several house originals, running from the bracing Karurita (tequila, pomegranate & pink rhubarb granita), to the smooth Cocobongo (coconut fat-washed rum & green banana cordial). Then you’ll begin, naturally, at the:
The starters at Coal Office range from the likes of Hatzil Til (roasted aubergine with tahini & raspberries), to scallops on the half shell with French butter & garden peas. Then there are the:
These slightly-larger-but-not-too-large dishes include white asparagus from Brittany with labneh caramel, and bonfire potatoes with feta, pecorino & brown butter. And finally:
The heftier bellyfillers include the likes of pulled leg of lamb with tropea onions & crispy shallots; or some octopus al lachuh with Yemeni pancake, truffle harissa sauce, and pomegranate.
There are of course desserts, including some delicate chop pastry with rice pudding & strawberries, or some white tahini ice cream, and they’ve got arak & cocktails to wash it all down. Annnd, just as an almost literal cherry on top, they’ll happily share recipes for anything you eat/drink there.
NOTE: Coal Office is open now. You can book a table, and find out more on their website right HERE.
Coal Office | 2 Bagley Walk, Coal Drops Yard, N1C 4PQ
While you’re in the area… check out the best bars in King’s Cross
2 Bagley Walk, King's Cross, N1C 4PQ
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0203 848 6085
9.0 | Amazing
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