And lo, after being on the Ark for a little over five months Noah saw a dove return to him with an olive branch in its beak…
That’s right, Noah was only in isolation for five months.
Here in 2021, we’ve been waiting a lot longer… but have finally received our own olive branch in the shape of Fenn, which opened on 12th April, showing us all that yes, there’s dry land ahead; zoo-keeping duty is over; and life is returning.
And fortunately Fenn isn’t just some second-rate buffet run by a bunch of randos, either. It comes to us from the team behind the critically lavished Nest over in Hackney, and has taken over the site of Fulham’s Harlequin, which itself was a bit of a stunner (sad emojis). The head chef, Joe Laker, used to man the pans at Anglo, and the executive chef, Johnnie Crowe, recently finished a stint at The Harwood Arms. So they’re not exactly amateurs.
Things kick off outside (usefully, in this era of outdoors dining). They’ve got a set of antique French doors which lead out onto a verdant, plant-filled terrace. It’s all completely covered and has a few heaters thrown in for good measure. It’s literally been designed to be both comfortable & safe. Once things move indoors, the space is similar to Harlequin, with a lot of warm wood and intimate, low lighting.
The menu here changes with the breeze, featuring both a la carte & set options. And it’s creative and ambitious in equal measure, with openers like beef tartare with fermented chilli and smoked oil, and hand-dived scallops with roast chicken butter, all finished with nutmeg custard tarts and a teasingly rich 70% chocolate ice cream.
And to drink? They have craft beer, cocktails (including an English Negroni with all its ingredients entirely sourced from Highgate & Forest Hill), and a whoooole lot of very good wine. They work with 120 wineries, and even have a take-out bottle shop.
You can book tables right now.
We assume their inbox is flooded.
NOTE: Fenn is open now. You can book your table and find out more at their website right HERE.
Fenn | 194 Wandsworth Bridge Road, SW62UF
Looking for outdoor dining ideas? Behold our list of (really good) places to eat outside in London