Jason Allen 04/11/22
German Gymnasium | Victorian Gymnasium Turned European Restaurant
Chefs have a saying:
“Always, always open your restaurant in the oldest gymnasium in the country, and it helps if the place also once hosted all the indoor events at the 1866 Olympics.”
Granted, it’s not a huge amount of chefs that say that, but the ones that do, end up with a place like this.
One such chef is Alexander Thiel (now in London after a glittering career in Berlin), and this place is the German Gymnasium – a vast, gorgeous, warehouse-like building next to Kings Cross with the kind of 57ft high ceilings that trigger whatever reflex action it is that makes you say “This must be ludicrously expensive to heat in the winter”.
Sadly, all the pommel horses have been taken out. Happily, they’ve been replaced with…
THE GRAND CAFÉ
The ground floor’s given over to the beautiful, European-style all-day “Grand Café”, serving Teutonic classics like veal schnitzel, goulash, and smoked Schinkenknackers, as well as – naturally – a patisserie counter filled with German chocolate bars & gingerbread. On weekends, they serve an exceptional brunch, with Black Forest ham and poached eggs nestled on potato rösti, and in the summer, you can snap up a table in their outdoor terrace for some much-loved alfresco dining.
Sweep up either of the two grand staircases and you’ll come to German Gymnasium’s mezzanine restaurant. Sit back on one of the royal blue, upholstered booths in front of the large 19th century windows and soak up the atmosphere below from a distance. Up here, the menu’s designed to introduce you to some lesser-known German cuisine like Flädlesuppe (clear beef bone broth served with a crepe) and honey-glazed duck. Order something from the German-leaning wine list to wash it down with (before remarking on how you always thought German wine was SO underrated).
THE MEISTER BAR
As in Bürgermeister (master of the citizens) or Jägermeister (master of the lads, lads, lads); the Meister Bar is the master of bars – a key distinction, seeing as there are two in this building. Centred around a soaring, illuminated display of spirits, the Meister bar is an important pitstop on your way up, or indeed down, those stairs, not least because it serves Bauhaus-inspired cocktails, 65 whiskeys, and of course, a selection of Bavarian beers.
Oh, and they’ve also got a gadget called “Le Whaf”, which they use to vapourize cocktails into “breathable clouds”, so you can, at last, inhale that Old Fashioned.
Time to go to the gym and put on a few pounds.
NOTE: German Gymnasium is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can find out more and make a reservation right here.
German Gymnasium | 1 King’s Boulevard, N1C 4BU
Looking for something a little more quirky? Have a scroll through the most unusual restaurants in London…
1 King's Boulevard, King's Cross, North London, N1C 4BU
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020 7287 8000
7.5 | Good
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