Harlequin | Monthly changing, inventive set menus In Fulham
Choice is overrated.
At least, that’s what we choose to believe.
Because sometimes when it comes to deciding what to have for dinner, it’s better to let a world-class chef make the choices for you. At least, that’s the idea behind Harlequin, recently opened in Fulham in a tiny, intimate space with vines hanging from the ceiling, and a beautiful driftwood table drawing the eye at its centre.
It comes to us from a chef named James Erasmus, who previously manned the pans at The Ledbury (two Michelin Stars, currently No.27 on the World’s 50 Best List, no big deal) and the Harwood Arms (the only Michelin-starred pub in London).
The idea is simple: it’s a set menu, only. That menu changes each month, according to what’s in season, and there’s always a vegetarian option. The food is predominately British with a few South African influences thrown in at homage to the chef’s heritage. And when you go to dinner there, you don’t get a choice as to what you’re having, and you’ll be grateful you didn’t.
The culinary journey mapped out by the current menu moves from caraway flatbreads with sunflower seed tahini to milk tart with dulce de latte and beurre noisette, going via poached pollock with light curry velour; roast & braised fallow deer with wild garlic; and a tender, baked crapaudine beetroot with yogurt and green olive.
There’s wine, and of course there’s a well-versed sommelier ready to recommend something that’ll perfectly match with the current menu.
In fact, the only important choice you have to make… is just going.
NOTE: Harlequin is open now. You can see what’s on this month’s set menu (£40pp) and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Harlequin | 194 Wandsworth Bridge Road, SW62UF
Harlequin don’t serve lunch… but Market Halls should sort you out