Jason Allen 30/11/21
Pip Lacey, the former head chef at Café Murano, has moved on to newer pastures.
And there’s been a Hicce up in her plans.
Specifically, Hicce; her debut restaurant, run alongside long-term business partner, Gordon McIntyre. They’ve settled down into the Coal Drops Yard development at King’s Cross; a sprawling industrial courtyard-turned-restaurant-hub where Hicce has Coal Office, Barrafina and The Drop as neighbours.
Hicce is a cosy space with room for 80, plus another 35 or so on the al fresco terrace out front. Inside, the arched brick windows throw light onto simple wooden furnishings, while the exposed A-frame roof above has piping intermingled with mid-century chandeliers.
Everything orbits around a huge wood-fired grill, upon which Lacey and her team are cooking up a menu of British food with a Japanese/Norwegian twist. Sharing dishes include the likes of beer bread; beef bavette; cured salmon with wasabi & apple; hot skewers of crispy duck, with king oyster mushroom & water chestnut – or you can plump for a smörgåsbord of charcuterie, veg or seafood.
The larger stuff stays on-course, with skate, turnips, golden raisin, radish, and lemon; some venison ribs with beetroot, pumpkin, and ricotta; and a whole baked celeriac with pickled walnuts & dill. For dessert, you can’t really beat the muscovado creme caramel. Of course, if you want to leave it all in their capable hands the Hicce experience will lavish you with four courses for £48pp. They also serve an exceptional brunch, with okonomiyaki eggs (Japanese omelette), a three-cheese mustard toastie, and pancakes with bacon and maple syrup. And chocolate. And rum.
The separate bar area, meanwhile, is home to house-label craft brews and small-batch, biodynamic wines available on tap – you can get a cocktail (try the Lingroni, it involves gin, Campari, Black Forest vermouth, and lingonberry), or some sake, or a botanical spritz.
So you may leave hicce-upping, too.
NOTE: Hicce is open for lunch and dinner, all week long. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Hicce | 102 Stable Street, Coal Drops Yard, N1C 4DQ
Making a night of it? Check out the best bars in King’s Cross
102 Stable Street, Coal Drops Yard, King's Cross, North London, N1C 4DQ
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8.0 | Great
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