Jason Allen 15/04/21
Ironically, it looks like of all the things HIDE does, hiding isn’t one of them.
Slapped right in the middle of town overlooking Green Park, HIDE is wünderchef Ollie Dabbous’ latest project. It’s three storeys tall, open all day, and it’s a team project together with Hedonism Wines, whose shop next door literally has the largest selection of grape-booze in the world. And then, in danger of attracting the place even more attention, HIDE landed itself a Michelin star within a year of opening.
From top to bottom the entire space seems to be made from wood, with tree-cut tables, chairs, floors, and fittings – even the building itself is corkscrewed through its centre by a huge, one-of-a-kind wooden spiral staircase that connects each of the three floors (and looks like it was ripped right out of a fairytale).
Starting at the top, here’s what those floors have to offer;
This is the more formal dining space. Sitting at the top it has the best views, in no small part helped by the floor-to-ceiling windows. At lunch you can get the dishes à la carte, including the likes of a tartare of heritage beetroot with blueberry vinegar, rose petals, crushed pistachio, and horseradish raw cream – or perhaps a little roast Huntsham Farm suckling pig with salt-baked turnip & golden raisins. It all ends with burnt liquorice root & gold leaf, naturally.
By dinner time it’s tasting menu only, with 6-9 courses of dishes like raw tuna with prickly ash & Exmoor caviar; slow roast goose with birch sap & kale; and garden ripple ice cream.
Credit: Joakim Blockstrom
The slightly more casual area, the ground floor is an all-day affair starting at breakfast with birch sap croissants, and smoked eel with a leek & potato glazed omelette. Lunch & dinner offer the likes of grilled langoustines with rosemary & sea truffle; Cornish lamb cooked over the embers with violet mustard & aubergine; and warm acorn cakes with smoked caramel.
Finally, there’s the cocktail bar run by Dabbous’s longtime mixology mate Oskar Kinberg. Here you can get a Martini shaken with frozen birch sap rather than ice (to give it a silkier finish) or one of their house originals; the Fallen Madonna has gin, pea-shoots, aloe vera, and de-carbonised tonic water.
If nothing on the menu takes your fancy, they have a ludicrously deep selection of rare spirits (Macallan 25YO Anniversary Malt 1971, The Cask of Yamazaki 29YO in Mizunara Oak 1979 – you know, the usual) and of course one of the world’s largest wine selections which you’re free to at least partially browse in their walk-in wine cellar.
Which also helps if you’re looking for somewhere to hide.
NOTE: HIDE is open all day every day, from 7.30am weekdays and 9am weekends. You can make a booking and find out more at their website right HERE.
Hide | 85 Piccadilly, W1J 7NB
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85 Piccadilly, Mayfair, W1J 7NB
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020 3146 8666
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