Jason Allen 17/01/23
…is what Kapara means in Hebrew.
And that concludes today’s lesson in modern Israeli slang.
But it also begins today’s lesson in ‘sleek Israeli restaurants now open in the centre of Soho from the esteemed team behind Bala Baya, led by ex-Ottolenghi chef Eran Tibi’. Because Kapara is one of them, darling.
The new space, located in the extremely fancy Ilona Rose House (home to Milk Beach Soho) ticks a lot of very good boxes, with an alfresco terrace, lounge, a bar area, and a main ground floor restaurant with a raised stage for live music & performances. The interiors, designed by the bleeding-edge Raven Collective, are a celebration of Tel Aviv’s eclecticism with sweeping curved booths, luscious planting, brass accents, and rich textures. Basically, they’ve taken the ‘great date spots’ handbook and gone for extra credit.
Which leads us neatly onto the next glamorous chapter in this place. Because if you go downstairs, you’ll find their destination basement level. Affectionately called “Grandad’s Naughty Corner” by Eran, it’s a six-seater counter that can be transformed into a private dining area complete with a personal ‘serve yourself’ bar, a full PA system, and multiple bespoke entertainment options. It’s basically a maximum intimacy chef’s table.
The menu is all inspired by Eran’s mother’s Middle Eastern home cooking, and the generations of baking expertise that she learned from. Thus it kicks things off with a swathe of freshly baked pittas, Moroccan buns, and Jaffa seeded onion bagels with herb butter. Then you’ll get larger dishes including one called ‘Abandoned at Sea’ that’s made entirely from ingredients that would otherwise have been wasted (specifically crispy cod chops & squid ink yolk pasta), and a winter ceviche that combines Mediterranean grouper with tiger’s milk, apple blossom, and tempura shiso. And to cap it off? The dessert menu includes a ‘Cigar Break’ with tahini rose pistachio ice cream, a cocoa cone, and a ‘smoke twill’.
And finally, the drinks tying all of this together will include an array of cocktails, some excellent Israeli wine, and a special “gazoz” menu of various sodas infused with botanical herbs, exotic fruits, and whatnot.
And thus concludes that lesson, too.
NOTE: Kapara is open now, Tuesday to Saturday. You can find out more and make a booking at their rather fantastic website right here.
Kapara | Ilona Rose House, James Court, Manette Street, W1D 4AL
This place is going to be in good company… check out our guide to Soho’s best restaurants.
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Ilona Rose House, James Court, Soho, Central London, W1D 4AL
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