What do good restaurants and bad jokes have in common?
To be specific, the Krickets that you’ll find in Soho, White City and, yes, Brixton. And Brixton is quite an appropriate location because it’s where the Anglo-Indian small plate specialists – merssirs Rik Campbell and chef Will Bowlby’s, that is – held their first pop up. The subsequent, rocket-ship success is testament to good it is.
The space they’ve chosen here is a convivial spot with soft leather banquettes and mismatched wooden furnishings nestled in a pair of industrial railway arches. In each one, a single curved corrugated wall covered in rich red paint vaults right over the entire space, covering an open kitchen & cocktail bar in one arch, and a simple dining area in the other.
The menu follows the interesting Kricket spin cooked up by Will Bowlby after a couple of years cheffing in Mumbai, where he learned the tricks of the trade. Here, everything is Indian-influenced but rustled up with seasonal British ingredients. Take the samphire pakoras, made with tamarind, chilli, and vibrant British sea vegetables. No seriously, take them, they’re delicious. Then there’s the Goan sausage gujiya (it’s like a dumpling) served with a smoked tomato chutney, or the Keralan fried chicken with a curry leaf mayo. None of which you’d expect to find in an Indian restaurant, but which work perfectly here.
There are cocktails, of course, which include the gin & curry leaf-laden Lucky Neem, and the rum & mango-laced Dark Matter. But the real star of the drinks menu is the house beer, which was specifically brewed by the London Beer Factory to match the food. In fact, the chefs like it so much, they added ‘buy the chefs a round of beer’ to the menu. Just don’t buy too many…
…it’ll knock ’em for six.
NOTE: Kricket Brixton is open now. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Kricket Brixton | 41-43 Atlantic Rd, SW9 8JL
Hot for Indian Food? Take a look at our guide to London’s best Indian restaurants here.