You’ll find Marceline floating in the perfectly still waters of a perfectly still dock in Canary Wharf.
But it’s already making waves.
It’s housed in a striking, three-tiered pavilion that somehow seems like it’s both a boat and an island at the same time. The same one that’s home to Hawksmoor Wood Wharf, and which you can see Roe from, too. Its shimmering lights throw dazzling reflections onto the water through its modern, slatted sides, making it seem completely at home with the futuristic sheen on the skyscrapers that surround it.
That’s from the outside though. The polished, glass-clad landscape of Canary Wharf fades away quickly once you step across the small bridge, and inside the monolithic pontoon itself. The interior is a masterclass in modern brasserie design: rich wood tones, plush orange leather seating, and an expansive bar. Large floral arrangements bring a touch of nature indoors, softening the sleek lines and adding a hint of grandeur. And there’s a mezzanine floor that overlooks the whole place, too.
The kitchen is helmed by none other than Robert Aikens, who is literally the twin brother to the insanely talented, Michelin Star winning Tom Aikens. And it seems that they aren’t just alike in looks, either. The menu here is genuinely a cut above the typical fare you’d find at this price point, testament to the time Robert spent in the trenches at Le Gavroche, and New York’s legendary Pastis.
To start, the warm cheese soufflé with gruyère cream and truffle is an absolute belter, that’s basically a voluptuous, velvety cloud on a plate. The steak tartare, spiked with hazelnuts, watercress, and mint, and served with artichoke chips, offers a fresh, vibrant take on a classic. The sugar pit bacon chop will leave you questioning why bacon chops aren’t on every menu, with its beautiful balance of sweet and savoury. And the ravioli du dauphine may look like prime Instagram-bait, but it just so happens to taste good too.
For dessert, the apple tarte fine arrives as the crowning glory—a refined, elegant version of a tart Tatin that might just be one of the most perfect puddings around. Pair any of these dishes with one of Marceline’s well-curated wines or perhaps a Two Sips Martini, which is a well-described, and well-priced aperitif at just a fiver.
So it’s good to know the place is keeping itself grounded.
NOTE: Marceline is open daily. You can find out more, and make a booking at the Marceline website.
Marceline | 5 Water St, E14 5GX
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