Robin Gill has done it again.
After stunning the London restaurant scene with his debut, The Dairy, then impressing with followups like Sorella and Darby’s (and let’s not forget the Bloodshot Supperclub), Robin Gill’s next project was always going to be closely followed. And Maria G’s is an absolute gem.
You’ll find it in West Kensington. Well, you’ll try to find it. If you follow your phone’s maps, you’ll likely be led astray. The actual restaurant is actually set inside a new housing development, but it’s so deeply ensconced that it appears to be on a different street entirely. Just head down Warwick Road until you get to the tall new Coe House development, and wander inside between the towering buildings. It’s back in a tranquil square at the rear that you’ll find Maria G’s.
The space itself a rather beautiful corridor of C-shaped booths overlooked by a huge, looped Art Deco light fixture – but it’s the outside space that really shines. Opened up by huge doors, it’s a little self-enclosed piazza, with it’s own little lawn of well-manicured grass, a bed of herbs (which the kitchen pluck from quite frequently) and what might be the city’s only outdoor chef’s table. It’s got a stone tabletop surrounded by heavy wicker chairs, and sided by a small fountain, and in the the summer months it’s the very definition of tranquil.
The menu is short, but extremely well-curated. It’s been put together by Gill’s long-standing friend, exec chef Aaron Potter, and it will ebb and flow with the seasons, moving from Southern Italy in the summer to Northern Italy in winter. Some of the standouts at the opening included anchovies wrapped in a parcel of sage leaves & fried to make delicate little fritti; a ravishing plate of La Latteria stacciatella served with stonefruit, soft herbs, and olive oil; and slices of succulent lamb rump with goat curd, chilli, and mint. But the winner? Is the mackerel bolognese with squid ink linguine and a heap of crunchy pangrattato.
To drink there’s a similarly tightly crated lineup of spritzes, a trio of cocktails, a selection of Italian wines, and one beer – but don’t worry…
…you’ll be up to the gills in no time.
Maria G’s | Coe House, 2-4 Warwick Ln, W14 8FN
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