Once upon a time…
Camberwell was overrun by lepers. In fact, the name “Camberwell” is a Saxon word for “cripple well”, because apparently the waters there could cure you. And those lepers would have given an arm and a leg for a place like Nape.
It’s the first permanent joint from Borough Market butchers Cannon & Cannon, who have been trading their ethically-produced, locally-sourced charcuterie all over London for years. The place is decorated with the industrial simplicity of wood & iron, like a butcher’s shop stretched out to accommodate a dozen or so tables, and it’s named after the cured meat prepared from the marbly, muscly flesh at the base of a pig’s neck, known in Italy as coppa. Which is appropriate, since here you’ll be able to coppa load of…
Served in a range of portion sizes: from snack-sized Cornish seaweed & cider sausage; to port-smoked Dorset mutton with pickled walnuts; to hefty sharing platters rippling with whole-muscle meats that change daily. There’s hot dishes too, like Hackney ‘nduja and London honey on fennel seed toast, or baby new potatoes smothered in grape must mustard & cured back fat.
NOT CURED MEAT
If you’ve er, pigged out, there’s also palate-cleansers like fennel with capers and tarragon, or bitter leaf & blood orange salad. Not to mention baskets of bakes and doughnuts from fellow Borough marketeers, Bread Ahead, and ice-cream from the Soho-based, but nonetheless delicious, Gelupo.
Drinks-wise, there’s a succinct list of beer from local craft breweries, and wine from low-intervention and little-known growers. They’re even better enjoyed in the basement tasting room, which is reserved for events and classes ranging from private wine tastings and pairing sessions, to curing and butchery masterclasses.
It’s safe to assume the lepers would’ve given them a big hand.
NOTE: Nape is now open weekdays 5 – 11pm, and weekends 12 – 11pm.
Nape | 21 Camberwell Church Street, SE5 8TR
Like delis with hidden rooms for tasting nights? Then maybe you’ll like Furanxo…