With its chequered tablecloths, extensive wine collection, and an eclectic array of chintz lampshades suspended from the ceiling, mastering the art of disguise is clearly not a priority for French restaurant Paulette.
It could add a moustache, but that probably wouldn’t help.
This is a French restaurant through and through; a family-run neighbourhood spot known for its effortless blend of warm hospitality, rustic charm and homely French cooking, just like your imaginary French grandma in Burgundy would have made.
Paulette sits on an awning-shaded corner of Formosa Street in Maida Vale, patiently awaiting your arrival after a long stroll along Regent’s Canal and around Little Venice. The inviting interiors ignore every tenet of the interior designer’s handbook: spots on the walls and floral wallpaper on the ceiling; fringed pendant lamps overhead; bentwood chairs tucked around tables with clashing vinyl covers… and it works.
Take a seat, and you’ll soon be greeted by Paulette’s fleet of amiable staff, who’ll treat you like you’ve just sat down at their kitchen table. You’ll be encouraged to take your time over platters of excellent cheese and charcuterie, and offered an opening salvo of Champagne served in an etched glass coupe (which has, wisely, been set at your table before you even sat down).
The menu is quintessentially French – think classics like moules marinières and pâté en croûte to start, with half a dozen lavishly buttered garlic snails if you so wish. There’s confit duck leg with crispy potatoes in a red wine sauce; and a fantastic entrecôte steak frites with café de Paris butter. The chips are superb. And desserts include a decadent lemon tart, loaded with a blowtorched zig-zag of puffy meringue.
Image Studio
Wine, of course, is given much thought here, and there are monthly tastings and rare picks available by the glass thanks to their Coravin kit. But Paulette’s direct connections with the growers, and the family’s passion for sustainable and biodynamic wines, means you can count on finding a bottle of good Bordeaux that won’t cost more than all your mains put together.
The sole caveat: Paulette is tiny, with about a dozen tables in total and a steadily growing reputation, meaning you might have to battle the crowds of newcomers who have just spotted the place on Instagram.
Unlike you, who’ve been planning to come here since at least the start of this article.
NOTE: Paulette is open for dinner Tues-Sun, and lunch Fri-Sun. Bookings are highly recommended – you can make a reservation on the Paulette website.
Paulette | 18 Formosa Street, London, W9 1EE
Love a bit of la belle France? Dépêchez-vous to the best French restaurants in London