Neil Frame 04/10/22
Perilla | “Anti-Fine Dining” Fine Dining in Newington Green
Some restaurants are like Rapunzel.
…except instead of their hair, they let you down.
Perilla – you’ll be happy to learn – is not one of them.
See, it’s all about consistency. And if you consider that their previous popup incarnations at Dulwich’s Platform 1 and Clapton’s Palm 2 have sold out almost instantly (for reasons we’re happily about to share) you’ll agree that Perilla version 3 is likely very, very good.
Thankfully, this one’s permanent.
It’s an “anti-fine dining fine dining restaurant”, serving up fancy food without the price tag. So instead of white tablecloths you’ll find raw plaster walls, a recovered terrazzo floor, and a glorious view across the leafy Newington Green through a wall of windows.
The duo behind it are Ben Marks and Matt Emmerson, whose respective stories go like this:
Ben was born in England and began cooking at Operakällaren in Stockholm when he was just a precocious 15 years old. After moving back to London he then spent three years in the kitchen of Claridge’s before being poached by Noma in Copenhagen, and then poached again, back to London by The (two Michelin-starred) Square.
Matt cut his teeth with Russell Norman at Polpo and Florence knight at Polpetto, and is now following his career trajectory on its near vertical ascent by taking the only logical next step: managing his own venue.
And so one of the best restaurants in Stoke Newington – Perilla – was born. And with that a place to go for dishes like seaweed bread brushed with roasted lamb fat, roast kale with cod roe, fried duck egg with chopped mussels and parsley, cuttlefish bolognese, glazed BBQ lamb ribs, and damson and honey custard complimented by a concise, worldly wine list; autumnal, flower-laden tables; and a botanical, home infused cocktail menu.
The best type of ‘to do’ list.
NOTE: Perilla is open for dinner daily, plus weekend lunches. You can find out more, and book a table, on their website HERE.
Perilla | 1-3 Green Lanes, Newington Green, N16 9BS
Wondering what else is around there? Then our Stoke Newington area guide might come in handy
1-3 Green Lanes, Newington Green, N16 9BS
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0207 359 0779
8.5 | Great
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