Okay, first the bad news: Plates is currently fully booked until the middle of next February. And that’s only because they haven’t released the next batch of reservations – you can be assured that the moment they do, the website will possibly crash (like it did the last time) with the hysterical, frenzied demand of the near-feral digital horde of epicurean devotees.
And now, the good news: they have a terrace. And it’s walk-ins only, so, if you play your cards right, you still might actually get to go.
That said, there are still likely a few people reading this right now wondering just what Plates is, and, well, if it really is worth all this hype considering that they – a true paragon of taste & trend – have never even heard of it? Here’s the short version:
It’s Kirk & Keeley Haworth’s first bricks-and-mortar site, and it’s all plant-based. After working in Michelin Starred restaurants across the world, Chef Kirk changed his focus to be entirely plant- based, after being diagnosed with Lyme disease back in 2016. Since then, he’s been crowned Champion of Champions on Great British Menu, won Menu of the Year award at last year’s Cateys, and grown a cult following from his fine dining pop-up with sister Keeley.
You’ll find the first permanent Plates in Old Street, a literal stone’s throw away from the meat-palace that is Blacklock Shoreditch. Inside, it all exudes a kind of minimalist earthiness, with mottled beige walls wearing a skirt of coffee-coloured banquette seating. There’s a lot of natural wood and the staff circulate the room in moss-coloured uniforms. It’s a soft, muted setting that not only underscores Plates’ connection to the natural world, but also serves to throw the creativity of the menus into the spotlight.
About those menus: there are two set tasting menus to choose from (£75 and £90), identical except for a single additional item (apricots & whipped custard with matcha & Australian black winter truffle). And if you’ve been yearning for a vegan fine dining spot to come to London, they’re going to answer all your prayers. Every dish is innovative and unexpected, featuring the kind of flavour combinations that can only be dreamt up by a true culinary provocateur.
The current menu features an opening palate cleanser of hibiscus & white tea granita is married with a soy custard. The barbecued maitake mushroom mingles global influences with a black bean mole, kimchi and aioli in tow. The mung & urad bean lasagne – probably the most refined serving of the dish you’ve ever received – is accompanied by sharp, pickled cucumber and nutty Tokyo turnip. And they all come paired with some truly exceptional natural wines, or for the teetotal, mocktails that seem to have been given just as much thought as the dishes.
It has to be said that Plates is definitely a place for the more hardcore foodies, looking for something a bit more experimental. You’re going for the theatre of it all, rather than, say, a slap-up feed. However, as long as you know what you’re buckling in for, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Of course, if you really get into the Plates philosophy, then you can head to their forthcoming farm & retreat in Bordeaux, which is slated to open later this year.
If you can get a booking, of course.
NOTE: Plates is open now. Whenever you read this, it’s likely to be fully booked, there is however a waiting list, and a walk-in terrace. You can find out about all of it on the Plates website.
Plates | 320 Old St, EC1V 9DR
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