Usually, you find the sea outside a shipping container.
But this dinky Brixton restaurant is bringing it right in.
See, it’s one of the many establishments that have made their homes in the village of repurposed shipping containers that is Pop Brixton. Perched on the upper level, Roe assumes a cosy, suitably nautical space with tiled walls, bulkhead lights and customers packed onto wooden benches like happy sardines. In the warmer weather, they open the doors and bring the tables outside, overlooking the fairylights and bustle of Pop’s ground floor.
Irishman Simon Whiteside is the chef and owner, and he presides over his kingdom from the open kitchen at the back. At Roe, he’s combining his upbringing in a small coastal town with the culinary clout he earned working under Raymond Blanc and The Dairy’s Robin Gill. Committed to sustainable fishing and working with the seasons, he switches up the menu regularly, but it takes the general shape of mix-and-matchable small and large plates. Each one is beautifully presented, creative and packed with layers of flavour – it’s a slice of fine dining in the most unassuming of surroundings, and all the more impressive for being assembled in such a modest kitchen.
Head over for lunch or dinner, and you might find yourself tucking into cuttlefish and ink arancini with pecorino foam; fried anchovies with fermented hot sauce; ink and Guinness soda bread with seaweed butter; skate with red wine and Jerusalem artichoke; oysters; whole market fish and ceviche, doused with the Irish spirit poitín. If it’s too hard to choose, plump for the tasting menu – a feast of dishes for two and a steal at £25 each.
You can wash it all down with wines, whisky affogato and beer brewed by the sea (they’ve even a seaweed and yuzu ale)…
…it’s really making waves.
NOTE: Roe is open Tuesday-Sunday, and the good news is that you can book – right HERE.
Roe | Pop Brixton, 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ
Like seafood in quirky settings? Head along to London Shell Co