Nominative determinism is the idea that your name can subtly predict what you do in life. You know, like Usain Bolt, or the inventor of the flush toilet, Thomas Crapper.
And much like them, Ruben Dawnay seems to have had his destiny written in his birth certificate. It might also be something to do with his Polish-Jewish heritage. Who knows. But either way, he’s been cheerfully producing some of London’s finest reuben-style sandwiches over the past few years, with sell-out crowds flocking to his residencies in Brixton Village and Peckham Arches, all the while sharpening his smoked meat & BBQ game to the point of absolute mastery.
Now, he’s moved into his largest venue to date: a pop-up space next door to Darby’s in Nine Elms, tucked into what used to be the apartments’ marketing suite. The faintly corporate vibe hasn’t been entirely shaken off—you’ll still find “Marketing Suite” printed on the side of the building, and if you visit on a Monday (when Darby’s is closed), you might even completely miss its relatively discreet entrance. Inside, though, it’s been given enough personality to feel like a proper food spot: towering ceilings, a tiled bar in green shell, and a bookshelf-lined back wall with scattered plants and quirky knick-knacks. Sure, it’s a bit of a mash-up, but the atmosphere is relaxed, and you’re really here for the food anyway.
And what food it is. Ruben’s menu pulls no punches: it’s unapologetically rich and meaty, but with enough finesse to avoid feeling heavy-handed. Standout dishes include soy-devilled eggs with smoked eel — a bite that delivers layer after layer of flavour, from umami soy to smoky eel. But the best thing on the menu is, without doubt, the burnt ends. They’re a sticky, sweet, and meltingly tender near-perfect treat. The Korean pork special, served taco-style with lettuce and condiments, is fun but maybe a bit busy. And if you’re after something comporting, the cheddar curds with basil ranch are basically little clouds of deep-fried cheese ready to be baptised in the glorious condiment.
It’s not a date-night spot unless your date measures romance in BBQ sauce, but that’s part of its charm. This is food to enjoy with a beer in hand, and absolutely no concern about how tidy you look while eating. It’s also worth noting the space doubles as the bakery Rye by the Water in the mornings, so if you go early, you’ll catch shelves of fresh bread and pastries near the door.
We’d be in for it, even if he was named Saladbar Danway.
NOTE: Ruben’s Reubens is in residency at Darby’s for the forseeable future. You can find out more at the Ruben’s Reuben’s website, and make a booking at the reservation link.
Darby’s Next Door | 3 Viaduct Gardens, Embassy Gardens, SW11 7AY
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