8.3
Great
Restaurants

Hattie Lloyd 03/09/24


SESTA

When Pidgin closed, it left behind the task of filling both a small space and some big boots.

Well SESTA has done both.

The little box space on Wilton Street next to London Fields wasn’t huge, but the Michelin Star winning, relentlessly innovative food certainly was, so it was hugely reassuring to learn that the restaurant taking its place was being run by the same head chef (Drew Snaith), the same front-of-house (Hannah Kowalski), and the same everyone basically. Except the owners. And they’re turned it into something different, but still lovely.

Step inside, and you’ll find a small, simple space with white walls, large windows, and a shelf of wine bottles lining the ceiling. Its size only adds to its intimacy and atmosphere, bringing an immediate sense of conviviality the moment more than three of four people are inside.

On the menu, you can get yourself the likes of locally grown Padron peppers with a smoked eel taramasalata, and some absolutely fantastic ‘nduja scotched olives, which are like little Scotched eggs, only with a sizeable green olive swapped out for the egg. They’re laid on a bed of ‘aggressive aioli’, and they pack a beautiful punch. After that, there are larger dishes like smacked cucumbers with raspberry hot sauce; tempura oyster mushrooms; mutton bacon ribs with fermented garlic honey & riesling mustard; and ultra-crispy roast potatoes. The menu rotates a lot, though not as frequently as it did at Pidgin, and mostly it’s a roaring success.

There are some delicious cocktails (try the mezcal negroni) and a nicely curated, natural-leaning selection of wines, and you can even got yourself a French-style ‘picon’ beer with house-made syrup. Oh, and there are plans to make their own mead, too.

Sounds like they’ll be busy bees.

 

NOTE: SESTA is open now, Weds-Sun. You can find out more, and make a booking, on the SESTA website.

SESTA | 52 Wilton Way, London E8 1BG


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SESTA


52 Wilton Way, Hackney, E8 1BG

020 7254 8311

8.3 | Great