SUMI is sushi master extraordinaire Endo Kazutoshi’s “little sister” restaurant to his eponymous Michelin-starred Endo at the Rotunda.
Although it’s named after his mother.
And it’s not so little anymore, either, having undergone a refurbishment and expansion after just one year of opening, adding 20 more seats to bring its total to 60. Its low-key aesthetic, however, has remained the same. The interior is the perfect balance of understated elegance: a mix of pale wood panelling, greenery and somehow chic-yet-casual rattan accents. It sits in that Venn intersection of Nordic and Japanese style, but the floral arrangements and lighting inspired by paper lanterns ensure the place still feels authentic, warm and inviting.
As part of the refurb, Kazutoshi has entrusted his mother’s good name to new Head Chef Christian Onia (previously of ROKA). The menu pays homage to Japanese traditions, but also takes inspiration from the many travels and experiences the great sushi master has had throughout his life. But part of the brilliance of SUMI is its simplicity. Whereas some sushi hot spots throw all sorts of bells and whistles onto the plate, SUMI sits back and lets the fish be the main event, making this one of the most confident, and frankly coolest, sushi restaurants in London.
The sashimi is absolutely excellent, and could be eaten all day long, but don’t leave without sampling at least one temaki, a hand-rolled variety of sushi consisting of rice, raw fish and vegetables wrapped in nori. The Akami, a mix of diced red tuna marinated in soy and wasabi, and the Hotate, diced scallop with shiso flowers, soy and salt, are unbelievably fresh and mouth-wateringly delicious.
To drink there’s a healthy list of cocktails, and of course the usual sake and Japanese whiskies that really add the finishing touch to your meal.
And the wasabi cherry on this tantalising cake?
The very reasonably priced SUMI will not break your bank, if you can believe it.
NOTE: SUMI is open Tuesday to Sunday. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right here.
SUMI | 157 Westbourne Grove, W11 2RS
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