An Ex-Dabbous Chef Is Opening A Gastropub

Ollie Dabbous’ eponymous restaurant was – between 2012 and 2016 – the hardest place to get a table in London.

Critics lavished him with praise. Jay Rayner called him “the hottest new thing in the world of British food.” He won a Michelin star within eight months of opening.

So when one of his protégés strikes out on their own, people tend to take notice.

Just as another protégé, Luke Selby, has scored a Michelin star for his menu at Evelyn’s Table, former Dabbous star Rob Tecwyn has announced his first independent project. And in fact, it’s not just the Dabbous kudos he’s bringing with him: he’s also manned the pans at Moro, Morito, and Kerridge’s Bar & Grill.

He’s teaming up with general manager Adam Symonds, who’s recently been running the floor at Orasay and Six Portland Road. The two met a decade ago while working at The Bull & Last in Highgate, which remains one of the city’s best gastropubs. So it’s unsurprising that they’re going to be reprising that atmosphere here, in an old corner pub just by the canal in Islington.

The two are building everything along the values of ‘sustainability, provenance, and low environmental impact’. They’ll be championing natural wines, London distilleries, keg and cask beer from British craft breweries, and Adam’s own particular penchant for ‘spontaneous fermentation beers’ (which google reveals to be what happens when ‘brewers pour the wort into a koelship.’ So there you go.) Basically, it’s beer that ferments using natural microbes in the air, rather than purposely added yeast, and people are getting quite passionate about it.

Going with all that adventurous liquid sustenance is an impressive pick of dishes, with the starting line-up including smoked eel & pig’s head terrine; quail shish with pul biber chilli & garlic yoghurt; roast gurnard with Roscoff onions from Brittany; ricotta gnudi with broad beans & nasturtium; and the pudding du jour, warm almond cake & Chantilly cream.

Everyone’s going nuts for it.


NOTE: The Baring is due to open in May 2022. We’ll be back with the full scoop then, but in the meantime you can keep up with them on social here.

The Baring | 55 Baring Street, London N1 3DS

Looking for a good pub meal in Islington? Check out The Drapers Arms in the meantime.

The Baring

55 Baring Street, Islington, N1 3DS

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