Jason Allen 11/10/21
The Black Cow is so-named because the owners consider themselves to be the black sheep of the hospitality world.
And this is a steak place.
Those owners – Shiri Kraus & Amir Batito – have had a hand in restaurants like The Palomar, The Barbary, and Coal Office, so they’re mostly setting themselves apart from the herd by being really, really good.
This is by far their most casual venture, set in Camden’s newfangled Hawley Wharf development, where it’s joined by dozens of other bars, shops, and restaurants in a giant food court. So not exactly a date spot. But if you’re after a quick bite, it’s an excellent bet, and here it takes up a gleaming marble bartop stretching out across the span of the open kitchen, with a couple of simple wooden tables set out for larger groups, too.
Take a seat, and you’ll be welcomed by one of the chef-owners, and talked through the menu. ‘On The Side’ are the vegetable dishes, including a Kharchouf artichoke with Stilton, or a freshly husked, scorched corncob draped in salted feta & labneh. ‘On The Other Side’ are the non-veg dishes, like the merguez sausage corndog dipped in zaatar & sweet harissa, which might just be the best Algerian-American street food you’ve ever eaten off a stick.
And then of course, the steak. The basic go-to is their Katan (a 6 oz onglet from H.G. Walters), which has an extremely rich, hearty flavour. Like the others, it’ll come with herbs that are burned before your eyes, releasing a rush of aromatics. You then take the meat, and drag it through the burnt, herbal embers, along with the olive & chilli oils, and it’s absolutely gorgeous. There’s a slightly pricier 10 oz Denver steak, or a whopping great 30 oz Sirloin on the bone, if you’re in a party. But they all get the same treatment.
To wash all of this down, there’s obviously some wine (it’s a highly curated selection, with just 8 bottles in all) and there are cocktails too, including a gin & hibiscus-laced Moabet, or the Kashish which blends bourbon with maple, orange, and bitters. But there’s also beer.
If you fancy being a black sheep.
NOTE: Black Cow is open now. You can find out more, and book a table/spot at the bar at their website right HERE.
The Black Cow | 2nd Floor, Hawley Wharf, 6 Water Ln, Camden Nw1 8JZ
Looking for something a little more comfortable? Check out the best steak places in London…
2nd Floor Hawley Wharf, 6 Water Ln, Camden, Nw1 8JZ
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