Neil Frame 04/09/22
The Good Egg is set in an old Ladbrokes in Stoke Newington.
It’s proved a good bet.
As has keeping their own good eggs, including ex-Ottolenghi baker Oded Mizrachi. Like their staff, the menu’s migrated over the years, and you don’t trot the globe without soaking up some of the local flavour, so expect Levantine cuisine with hints of Montreal, Tel-Aviv and New York – which also inspired the interior. Whitewashed walls, shelves with jars of pickling lemons, and a breakfast bar loaded with freshly made babka combine for a cool, crisp slice of big apple.
As you gather with friends on the wooden banquettes you’ll have a choice to make:
There’s plenty of options “for the table” and, once it’s had its fill, you can enjoy what’s left of cornbread, zhoug and honey butter, house labneh with lemon & chilli relish, or morning baharat buns, to name but a few. You can then crack on to larger plates like parsnip and potato kugel with smoked trout, egg and bacon pita with date jam and mango, or manoushi with ajvar (pepper oil), pumpkin and fried egg.
© Safia Shakarchi
Pick up a classic NYC or Montreal-style bagel to go, loaded with The Good Egg’s house-cured salt beef, smoked cheddar and mustard; or peruse the countertop for some freshly-baked babka and a coffee from Volcano roasters.
Served Wednesday – Saturday, everything’s up for grabs in The Good Egg’s dinnertime sharing menu. You can divvy up braised octopus with pink fir potatoes, honey and apricot glazed lamb ribs, flat iron steak with pomegranate chimichurri, and za’atar fried chicken. Herbivores are also catered for with dishes including baharat spiced roast pumpkin and the aggressively named smacked cucumber with miso and chickpeas.
To wash it all down there’s craft beer, prosecco, juice, even orange wine – basically, all you need to survive the morning after. Or, if you’re ready to start again, then kick things off with a pickleback – a bourbon shot with a pickled brine chaser.
NOTE: The Good Egg is open daily. To find out more, and book, head HERE.
The Good Egg | 93 Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 0AS
Love brunch? Then you may be fond of our Ultimate London Brunch Guide
93 Stoke Newington Church Street, Stoke Newington, N16 0AS
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020 7682 2120
8.5 | Great
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