7.7
Good
Restaurants

Jason Allen 24/01/25


The Great Indian

‘The Great Indian’ is a punchy name, not just because it’s almost a review of itself, but also because that’s exactly what people google when they want a decent curry.

And as good fortune would have it, they do make a pretty decent curry.

Following in the footsteps of The Tamil Prince collective, it’s a kind of gastro-pub-Indian-restaurant hybrid, which you’ll find on a quiet residential street in Archway. A place where upbeat Bollywood beats meet jungle-print wallpaper, and the ceiling foliage is plastic, but in a charming way. It’s about 15 minutes from the nearest Tube, so it will be packed out by locals most of the time.

The Great Indian

It’s brought to us by Aman Dhir, who made his name slinging curries from his Hackney kitchen before roping in award-winning, wonderfully named chef Jolly to turn this neighbourhood pub into a culinary adventure across the subcontinent.

At lunch, thalis are the best move – plates stacked high with rice, raita, and all sorts of little treats that make you feel smug about your decision to eat something so obviously superior to a sandwich. Dinner ups the ante with inventive dishes like a Lamb Ghee Roast taco and a Lamb Shank Pie wrapped in pastry and bathed in a saffron-cardamom sauce. Meanwhile, the trianga sauce is a colourfully layered homage to the Indian flag, with green coriander up top, sour cream below, and then tomato chutney. There are pub staples too, like battered prawns served with mushy peas (but, of course, there’s a curry leaf involved), and the standout might be the delicious butter chicken.

The Great Indian

The drinks menu leans hard into its pub roots with beers on tap, but the cocktails are where things get interesting. The Imli Margarita, with tamarind and chilli, offers a spicy twist, while the Great Indian cocktail (vodka, curry leaves, lime) has enough invention to keep you happy.

It’s not reinventing the wheel… but it’s having a damn good time spinning it.

 

NOTE: The Great Indian is open now, Tuesday to Sunday. You can find out more and make a booking at the website.

The Great Indian | 139 Marlborough Road, N19 4NU


Like a nice curry? Here are London’s best Indian restaurants.


The Great Indian


139 Marlborough Road, Archway, North London, N19 4NU

7.7 | Good