Rupert Hohwieler 10/10/22
Three Uncles has spawned a sibling.
Yes, it’s a weird family tree, but the food is delicious.
After opening two stellar takeaway hatches in Liverpool Street & Camden, the childhood buddies Cheong Yew (Uncle Lim), Pui Sing Tsang (Uncle Sidney) and Mo Kwok (Uncle Mo) behind Three Uncles finally opened a sit-down restaurant in Brixton, with tables and chairs and plates and everything. They’d been planning it since 2019, but the pandemic came along and clotheslined their ambitions, so it was only three years on that they were able to finally open.
You’ll find Three Uncles down in Brixton Market, under the shelter of its covered, grand arcades. The space itself is small and highly casual, with just two tables inside and half a dozen on the terrace outside (although given that they’re under Brixton Village’s glass roof, perhaps they’re technically indoors too?). It’s all white tile, red neon, and blue trim, and honestly you’d imagine you were in Hong Kong if you didn’t know any better.
And as it happens the three uncles themselves actually did come from Hong Kong, where they all developed a deep affection for siu mei (literally ‘roasted meats’ in Cantonese), which is what the menu revolves around. You can get absurdly succulent duck still on the bone, char siu BBQ pork, or Hainan style spiced chicken all piled onto bowls of rice or delicate Lo Mein noodles.
Three Uncles Brixton boasts a few new items on the menu which you won’t find at either of the other Three Uncles branches – you can get all three siu mei in a huge ‘Three Treasures Platter’, or some Lai Fun duck noodle soup (made from a duck bone broth slow-simmered for 48 hours) or a plate of lotus leaf rice with Chinese sausage, steamed chicken, and shiitake mushrooms.
If you’re after a first-rate lunch, or a lovely light dinner, then you can’t really beat it.
NOTE: Three Uncles Brixton opened on 14th March 2022. No need to book, just turn up – you can find out more at their website right HERE.
Three Uncles Brixton | 19 & 20 Brixton Village, SW9 8PR
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19 & 20 Brixton Village, Brixton, SW9 8PR
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