It’s a well known fact that traditional Southern Spanish cuisine is very Moorish.
But it’s about time somebody started flying the flag for Northern Spanish fare, and that’s exactly what’s happening up at Stoke Newington’s Trangallán.
Practically the dictionary definition of a local gem, it’s tucked round the corner from Newington Green (not far from Perilla). Outside there’s a villagey striped awning overhanging a couple of tables and chairs for al fresco dining, while inside is an intimate, candle-lit, Aladdin’s cave of bohemian style, with dining furniture sourced from flea markets, elegant chandeliers and vintage bric-a-brac dotted around the room.
Founded by a group of friends back in 2011, the restaurant is a love letter to Galician cuisine. Their daily (and sometimes twice-daily) changing menu shines with quality ingredients and seasonal produce. There’s no soggy patatas bravas here; instead you’ll find elegant partnerings like sautéed mushrooms with grapes, hazelnuts and payoyo cheese, muscular octopus leg with woody Jerusalem artichokes, and Iberian pork secreto (a shoulder cut) served with beetroot and charred clementines. These are dishes that can only be topped by the discerning selection of Galician and Catalan natural wines, and the unusual trio of sweets, including a chocolate, olive oil and salt mousse.
Downstairs, meanwhile, is a dining area for larger parties; but while they can’t run their usual calendar of flamenco, music nights and film screenings, they’re using the indoor spaces to run a socially distanced market, hawking fresh produce from their hit-list of suppliers, as well as bottles from their hand-picked natural wine list…
…because it turns out that’s pretty moreish, too.
NOTE: Trangallán is open for dinner Tues-Sat, and lunch Wed-Sun; you can find out more and book on their website HERE.
Trangallán | 61 Newington Green, N16 9PX
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