Trivet | The next project from the Fat Duck’s head chef
After working at The Fat Duck, chef Jonny Lake has now opened his own solo restaurant.
Big whoop, we hear you say, anyone can flip burgers at The Fat Duck for the summer, that doesn’t make them Heston-bloody-Blumenthal.
Well, no. But Jonny Lake worked there for 13 years, becoming head chef back in ’09, helping the place keep its three Michelin Stars year after year, and working his way up to become executive chef of the entire Heston restaurant group. So, in short, his first solo restaurant is kind of a big deal. And to boot? He’s also brought the head sommelier of The Fat Duck with him.
You’ll find the space in Southwark, next to London Bridge station. It’s got a well-lit, light brown interior, whose warmth is brought out through wooden wall panels, mustard banquette seating, and an unusual parquet-style floor made from perfectly tessellating hexagonal tiles. It’s all split between a dining area & a wine bar, both of which are flooded with light thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows.
Starting with the food, the menu is short-but-sweet, and includes deceptively simple-sounding dishes like ‘chicken in vinegar sauce’ with mashed potatoes and glazed turnips, each component of which has been prepared to a ridiculously high standard. Then, there are of course some more complex numbers like confit fried guinea fowl wing with braised mustard wings & wasabi; or red mullet with pici (it’s like fat spaghetti) and artichokes.
For dessert, you can get a very inventive Hokkaido Potato; it involves baked potato mille-feuille (!) with sake & white chocolate cream, butter, and sake gelato. Or, if you’re not feeling quite that adventurous, you can always go for the classic chocolate & hazelnut fondant.
And then there’s the wine list – it spans the world, bottles start at £30, and every single one has been hand-picked to go with the food. After all, Johny Lake and sommelier Isa Bal have been working together for 12 years at The Fat Duck, so they know how to match to each other’s work extremely well.
All things considered – what with the talent in the kitchen and all – the prices are neither particularly cheap, nor too eye-watering either (starters from £14, mains £26, desserts £10)… and as for what an actual trivet is? They’re the large metal coaster-style things for pots & pans to rest on tables, or above fires. Which is appropriate.
Because this particular Trivet is probably going to be very, very hot.
NOTE: Trivet is open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. You can find out more, and book a table at their website HERE.
Trivet | 36 Snowsfields, SE1 3SU
Like fancy food? Check out the city’s Michelin Starred restaurants…