Umu has been one of London’s finest Japanese restaurants for 20 years, the past 8 of which it’s held a Michelin Star – so it shouldn’t exactly come as a surprise that they’ve delivered a wonderful new summer menu.
For those who haven’t yet had the pleasure of visiting, you’ll find it tucked away on a small Mayfair backstreet, and you’ll likely encounter a flicker of doubt as to whether you’re even in the right place. Then you’ll see the pale, wooden, windowless facade with a large illuminated Japanese character. In it, there’s a recessed door that has no handle – the only way to open it is by waving your hand over the sensor next to it. It slides open, and you walk in, and that sense of tranquility washes over you fully.
The space itself is elegant, simple, and feels like a small chunk of Kyoto has been lifted out of Japan and delicately placed into West London. Everything from floor to ceiling seems to be made of wood, and the sushi bar has a delicately scalloped edge; just one of the many little details that round out the experience. Even the tableware is made in-house.
Now, about that new menu – it’s a seven-course kaiseki, which is basically the Japanese equivalent of a Western tasting menu, created by Executive Chef Ryo Kamatsu in the style of the traditional Kyoto-style cuisine that Umu specialises in.
What’s in store? Well, it’s a parade of fresh, well-utilised, and frequently inventive ingredients. You’ll find everything from a delicate ‘flower’ of intertwined courgette & seabass floating in a fragrant broth; to a gorgeously contrasting sashimi plate that marries the lean, mineral-rich tuna back with the fatty & voluptuous tuna belly; a perfectly arranged square of succulent Welsh lamb with smoked aubergine & pine nut miso; a dish that involves gorgeous scallop-infused rice and tomato dashi, and a ridiculously creative dessert that’s entirely made from sweetcorn, yet manages to pack in a whole spectrum of textures, flavours, and temperatures.
Of course, you can still order a la carte too, and get some of the finest Kyoto-style cuisine outside of the city itself.
And washing all this down? They’ve got one of the biggest sake lists in Europe. It includes a couple of sweet, Champagne-like sparkling sakes, and enough others to match with virtually anything you order. Just make sure you ask the very well versed sommelier to give you a recommendation.
For your own sake.
NOTE: Umu is open now, Tuesday-Saturday. You can find out more and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Umu | 14-16 Bruton Place, W1J 6LX
Speaking of sushi….have you read our guide to the best sushi restaurants in London yet?