For those who don’t know it, Silo is one of the UK’s most pioneering sustainable restaurants. And the person sustaining their success for the past 18 months has been head chef Brendan Eades, a man so committed to his zero-waste philosophy that he’d probably take objection to this sentence for using too many words.
Well, now he has his own restaurant.
Welcome to Warehouse.
You’ll find it on the ground floor of the grade-II listed, six-storey building that is The Conduit members’ club in Covent Garden. It’s their first public restaurant, and it actually used to be a literal fruit & vegetable warehouse. In fact, you can still see a few details of its former life when you walk in, such as the stone floor, or the iron girders still propping the ceiling aloft, now painted in a rich azure blue so as to blend in with the walls. The furnishings filling the space are all reclaimed or vintage, the curtains are hand-woven, and the artwork all conveys the subtle message of circularity – a deliberate nod to the ethos of sustainability that seems to pervade the place on a literal and figurative level.
The broadly British menu starts with a page dedicated to listing their suppliers, and giving each a little backstory – the vanilla comes from a humanitarian supplier on the Pacific island of Tonga, the vinegar comes from a brewery in the Orkneys, etc. The dishes those ingredients go into will rotate with the seasons, but the opening menu includes the likes of miso-glazed roasted Hispi cabbage enriched with black garlic; a free range pork chop draped in browned anchovy butter with capers & parsley, then served with earthy greens braised in their own stock; a saddle of slow-roast venison (served pink) with hay-smoked beetroot; or some sea bass cured in cucumber seeds & horseradish, then plated up with borage flowers & dill oil.
As for the drinks? Well, the man matching Eades’ ambition in the kitchen is innovative mixologist Walter Pintus, whose CV is peppered with legendary drinkeries like The Connaught and The Ritz. He’s chalking up his own sustainability points by turning coffee grounds into infusions, turning orange husks into sherbet, and turning all of them into a lengthy menu of original drinks. The cocktails he’s shaking include a Warehouse Gimlet made with foraged sea herbs, a martini infused with oyster shells, and a Woodland Negroni whose autumnal flavour are bought out by Douglas fir needles. Just go easy on them…
…it would be very embarrassing to be the one thing getting wasted.
NOTE: Warehouse is open Tues-Sat, 12-11pm. You can find out more, see the current menu, and make a booking at their website right HERE.
Warehouse | The Conduit, 6 Langley Street, WC2H 9JA
Like zero-waste bars? Check out Nine Lives…