8.7
Great
Restaurants

Hattie Lloyd 25/07/24


Wilson’s

Neighbourhood restaurants are a special breed.

They require great food – obviously. They should have that cosy, intimate atmosphere that feels like a home from home (without the washing up). And unlike the big, glitzy openings in Central – which welcome a different crowd every night – a proper neighbourhood restaurant should feel genuinely knitted into the fabric of the local community. And Wilson’s has that in spades.

That’s because founders Alina and Joel Falconer are already such familiar faces in the area, running the excellent café Oscar’s across the road, and their crowd-funded refill shop Plenty next door. Their first steps into evening service have been hotly anticipated by Ladywell locals, which explains the still-packed tables a few months into opening. But if you manage to nab a table before SE residents snap them all up, Wilson’s is a neighbourhood spot well worth travelling to.

You’ll find it a stone’s throw from Ladywell station, in what was once an old bootmaker’s shop – the A. Wilson sign is still propped up downstairs. They’ve transformed the space into a stylish, welcoming warren, with two connected dining rooms dressed in plaster pink and emerald green respectively, and an array of homely nick-nacks lining a high shelf above. The lighting is warm and gentle, while candles melt over vintage wooden tables.

Wilsons ladywell

The Falconers have teamed up with their long-time friend Henry Freestone (another Brockley local) to head up the kitchen. And his CV is a roll-call of hits: by the age of 24 he was already head chef at the esteemed Crispin in Spitalfields, he scooped a Michelin Bib Gourmand while at the helm of Peckham Cellars, and just before Wilson’s he helped to launch Bambi over in London Fields. Wilson’s, however, has long been in the pipeline and it’s clear that he’s in his element here, putting out vivid European dishes that hum with intensity and flair.

Those dishes change weekly but evolve within the same broad format – while Wilson’s has the feel of a small plates spot, the menu lends itself well to three courses. The only constants are the snacks, which include a trio of perfectly crisp beef shin nuggets and crostini topped with rich, funky puddles of brown crab rarebit. Among the starters, there’s usually a salad (given oomph with pickles and a star ingredient like crispy pork belly); some top-quality cheese or charcuterie; and something delicious on a thick slab of a toast. On our visit, that happened to be a handful of pink, plump prawns and soft datterini tomatoes, all lavished with a piquant ‘nduja oil that seeped into the bread – an absolute stand-out, and we’re willing to bet other seasonal variations will be just as good.

wilsons

Scaling up to the mains, there’s always a meat, fish and veg-focussed dish, which is easily enough to share with a couple of generously-portioned sides. The mackerel we ordered arrived almost butterflied, perfectly cooked and erupting with a salad of frisée lettuce, fennel and nutty puy lentils. A chicken & tarragon pie floating off to other tables looked just as good. And you can cap it all with a couple of equally seasonally-led desserts, like a cherry bakewell with clotted cream or a decadent custard panna cotta.

Aside from the restaurant operation, Wilson’s is very serious about wine (but is refreshingly unpretentious about it). Alina knows the list back to front and will be able to recommend something that sits towards traditional or adventurous, depending on your tastes. On the latter end of the scale, the Tutti Frutti blends six Alsatian grape varieties for a bold glass that complements rather than competes with savoury flavours on the plate. And there are cocktails, too, including a seasonal house spritz that’s light and highly drinkable, and dangerously easy to order in multiples.

On weekends, Wilson’s heartily embraces the long lunch. The Sunday set menu in particular is great value, with a starter (like burrata & nectarine or crispy pork belly salad) and a main of roast chicken or aubergine parmigiana with sides of buttery new potatoes and tomato & feta salad, for £35 – with the option to tack on a cheese plate or a dollop of tiramisù to finish.

So like any great neighbourhood restaurant, there are plenty of reasons to come back…

 

NOTE: Wilson’s is open for dinner Thurs-Sun, plus lunch on weekends. To find out more, and book, visit the Wilson’s website.

Wilson’s | 77 Ladywell Road, London SE13 7JA


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Wilson’s


77 Ladywell Road, Ladywell, SE13 7JA

0203 649 5585

8.7 | Great