The Hampstead Ponds: a genuinely immersive experience.
For over a century, they’ve allowed city-dwellers to escape the world beyond and take a dip in London’s most blissful, bucolic setting.
There’s a total of 25 ponds dotted across Hampstead Heath, three of which are big (and clean) enough to swim in. Quite conveniently, that translates to single-sex ponds for men and women, and a mixed pond that’s only open in the summer for the more fair-weather dippers.
The other two attract some truly devoted fans who come to swim here all year round. There are women in their 80s who have been coming on a daily basis for decades, and will be the first to chip through the pond’s ice cap on a frosty December morning – though you’ll need to gradually habituate yourself to the dropping temperatures if you want to join them.
The Kenwood Ladies’ Pond in particular holds a kind of mythical status, and has even spawned an entire book of reflections written by acolytes of the water. And it’s easy to see why: having officially opened in 1926, it’s more secluded than the men’s pond, sheltered away from prying eyes in a patch of woodland. Walk down the path, pay your fee at the tollbooth, and you’ll discover a glade with a couple of sun-drenched meadows for reading and sunbathing, fringing the pond itself. The facilities are surprisingly modern, as well, with a timbered hut featuring hot showers being the pond’s only addition in the last century.
The men’s pond is more exposed, with dog-walkers looking on at brave souls dashing along the boardwalk and taking the plunge in the colder months. And the mixed pond is a slightly more cramped affair, with just a tiny bank to lay out your towel. Best to come here for a quick dip, then head back onto the heath for a picnic.
But whichever pond you’re plunging into, you’ll experience something magical. It’s one of the most genuinely restful and refreshing experiences you can have in the city, staring up at the open sky and feeling a million miles from offices and tube carriages as you glide past moorhens and ducks. You’ll feel silt flowing between your toes, and might feel the occasional fish flit past. If you want to get close to nature, this is one way you can find yourself quite literally immersed in it.
Getting there is all part of the fun – you’ll find the single sex ponds on the Highgate side of the Heath, close to the edge. You can find them easily from Millfield or Merton Lane, but it’s much nicer to start on the eastern side of the heath, and climb Parliament Hill or the Tumulus for some panoramic views first. You’ll also pass the Mixed Ponds that way, which are closer to the Hampstead side (get off at Hampstead Heath overground for easiest access).
And once you’re towelled off? You’ll have earned a refuel at the Southampton Arms.
NOTE: The single sex ponds are open daily, with hours changing depending on the seasons. There are lifeguards year-round. The mixed sex pond is only open in warmer months. You can find out more, check the water temperature and pre-book a slot on the Hampstead Ponds ticket site.
Since you’re in the area… make day of it with our perfect itinerary around Hampstead Heath