Anya Hindmarch, agent of chaos, tastebud terrorist, has brought her eccentrically mesmerising Ice Cream Project back for the summer.
For those blissfully unfamiliar, this will be its third year as a pop up, in which it will sell both tubs & scoop of ice cream inspired by store cupboard staples like baked beans, salad cream, and other such classics that have absolutely no right going anywhere near a freezer. And yet, despite the potentially traumatising nature of some of these concoctions, there were clearly a sufficient number of genuinely good ideas (Golden Syrup ice cream, Digestives ice cream, etc.) that the fickle hand of fate has allowed it to return this year, and turn a whole new swathe of sauces, condiments, and tinned goods into frozen treats.
This year though, there’s a twist. You can, should you feel like living on the edge of the edge, you can head to the cafe next door and take part in a blind tasting of ALL the flavours. Even the grass ones. And you’ll have to attempt to guess what’s what, write down your answers, and have them scored at the end.
So, with that in mind, here is an extremely judgemental guide to what’s on offer inside the store’s sleek silver freezers:
Bird’s Custard – okay, easy start. This is a returning flavour, and it’s genuinely nice and creamy.
Branston Piccalilli – swallow the little bit of vom that just came into your mouth, because you’re going to need it again when you hear that this is finished with “a hint of bold mustard”.
Filippo Berio Pesto – are we insane for thinking this might not be terrible? Yes. We are.
Heinz Baked Beans – 90% sure this is banned by the Geneva Convention.
Kenco Coffee – surefire winner. But coffee ice cream already exists, so no surprise there.
Kikkoman Soy Sauce – this is actually a delicious-sounding toasted sesame ice cream base which has been infused with (and probably ruined by) soy sauce.
Maldon Sea Salt – dark chocolate sorbet with salt flakes and chocolate shavings? Um, yes please. Great save from what could have been genuinely lethal.
McVities Penguin – chocolate ice cream? With crunchy pieces of Penguin bar? What’s not to love!
McVities Jaffa Cakes – slam dunk number 2 for McVities.
Perello Olives – there is no universe in which this is a good idea.
Robinson’s Lemon Barley Water – lemon sorbet, but made with barley. Sounds lovely.
Sarson’s Vinegar – honestly what the f**k.
Sun-Pat Peanut Butter – why doesn’t peanut butter ice cream already exist? Seriously, we’re asking. Sounds amazing.
Tiptree Orange Marmalade – another solid offering. Orange-flavoured, but not a sorbet. Could be great.
Tropicana Orange Juice – and this one is a sorbet. Everyone wins!
So, as you can see, it’s a mixed bag. But at least it’s an interesting bag. It’s all handmade in Devon we’re told, and plans are for the place to stay open at the Hindmarch flagship Village Hall in Belgravia’s Pont Street across the summer, from 7th of June until 18th of August. If you do decide to pop in?
Good luck to you.
NOTE: The Ice Cream Project is open from 7th of June until 18th of August. You can find out more at the website right here. You can book the blind tasting here.
The Ice Cream Project | 11 Pont Street, SW1X 9EJ
Want to keep it more traditional? Here’s a central London ice cream crawl…