Chef Ruth Hansom reigns supreme at The Princess of Shoreditch.
The sought-after chef first cut her teeth on the London restaurant circuit at the likes of Boundary and The Ritz, just as it won its first Michelin Star in its 110-year history. After five years steadily rising up the ranks, she left — at the age of 21. Going on to compete in the final of the Great British Menu – an impressive feat for any chef, but particularly one of her age – and being crowned the Young Chef of the Year Award in 2017, it’s fair to say Ruth deserves regal status.
It was only a matter of time before she went solo, and it’s a head chef role at The Princess of Shoreditch that’s allowed her to fully flex her measured yet creative touch.
From the outside, The Princess of Shoreditch casts a demure silhouette up against the modern backdrop of glass-clad skyscrapers and uniform Victorian mansion blocks. Inside is a traditional pub set-up, with dozens of wine bottles stacked into wooden racks surrounding the bar. It’s here that you’ll also find craft beers, cocktails and unbelievably good bar snacks such as highland venison tartar with lovage, pickled mustard seed and confit egg yolk. There are also more substantial dishes that riff on pub classics, like south coast cod with pea, lemon and scraps; and salt-aged beef wellington with hispi cabbage & truffle mash.
Upstairs, in the sophisticated dining room, is where the real magic happens. It’s here that you can sample Ruth’s menu which leans heavily into British provenance and seasonality. Choose from either a five-course or eight-course tasting menu that reads like clues to a cryptic crossword, only hinting at what’s to come but brimming with produce grown and reared on our shores. Pub grub it ain’t – this is fine dining, exceptionally presented, and half the price of its central London counterparts.
From the pretty flourishes on each plate to the deft touch of the service, it’s clear to see Ruth leads the restaurant with an emphasis on elegance and efficiency, like a queen nobly steering her empire in the direction of world domination.
Or at least, a Michelin star.
Words by Immy Smith
NOTE: The Princess of Shoreditch is open daily, with the dining room open Wed-Sun. You can find out more, and book, HERE.
The Princess of Shoreditch | 76-78 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE
While you’re in the area… check out the best bars in Shoreditch.