Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack | Soho Restaurant
This place shucks.
A new, teensy weensy addition to the five year-old Bonnie Gull flagship in Fitzrovia, the Soho number combines the sleekness of an express seafood counter with the rustic charm of a Cornish cove. There’s a smattering of intimate tables in the back room, but the best seats are up at the marble counter, where you can chat with the chefs and maybe gain access to an off-menu dish or two.
The menu, with its swashbuckling caveat of being “dependent on conditions at sea,” lists a variety of small plates to suit your level of hunger; such as squid toast with ink aioli, chargrilled Manx queen scallops with black pudding, and grilled monkfish cheek and duck heart skewers. They’re all prepared right in front of you using the catch of the day and unexpected ingredients that will blow your preconceptions right out the water. Sides, meanwhile, range from tempura kale to smoky, wood-roasted celeriac – and, for those die-hard fish supper traditionalists, chips.
And with all this seafood, you’ll be glad to know that there’s more than a drop to drink – mostly in the form of wine from small-scale producers, chosen by sommelier Bastien Ferreri, and Bonnie Maries (served with a fresh oyster).
Meaning that every version you have afterwards will be just yet another bloody mary…
NOTE: Bonnie Gull Soho is now open Mon-Sat noon till midnight, and Sunday 12pm-10pm, with last orders an hour before. They are walk-in only.
Bonnie Gull | 22 Bateman Street, W1D 3AN
Image credit: Helen Cathcart for Bonnie Gull Soho
Looking for a seafood spot for a big special occasion? Well you might just like J. Sheekey…