Jason Allen 24/01/23


There are two sides to this Koyn.

And that’s not just a pun on the name, it’s literally the driving concept of the restaurant.

You’ll find it in Mayfair, just around the corner from The Connaught. Step inside, and you’ll be greeted with the kind of demure & inviting atmosphere that the neighbourhood wears so well, punctuated by a vigorous shout from the team of chefs working behind the sushi counter, in the traditional Japanese ‘Irasshaimase!’ welcome.

That’s upstairs, of course. This is the Midori space, and here is where the sushi is prepared. It’s all light and airy, with pale wooden fittings dressed in a subtle color palette of muted greens, beiges, and blacks, conspiring to give it a serenely calm modern Japanese feel.


Then, downstairs, you’ll find the other half of the restaurant (the other half of the ‘Koyn’ so to speak). This is the Magma space, and it’s is a darker, moodier area designed with a striking contrast of dark tones and warm lighting. This is where the robata is prepared.

Both sides of the menu are served in both sides of the restaurant, it just depends on what kind of atmosphere you want to enjoy. And speaking of the menu, it’s all the work of Executive Chef Rhys Cattermoul, whose CV includes stints as the head chef at NOBU Berkeley Street, and the executive chef at NOBU Hong Kong. So, not exactly a neophyte. Here, he’s putting together the likes of slices of chutoro (semi-fatty tuna) which are draped in sudachi citrus soy, and which absolutely melt in the mouth, or delicate scallop sashimi with yuzu. Then, the robata selection includes a sensational Chilean seabass which flakes apart soooo tenderly, and some rich and juicy smoked lamb cutlets.


And to wash all of this down, there’s plenty of wine – but you need to go for the house sake. It comes in a beautifully designed carafe, and it’s got a wonderfully clean and floral taste. And yes, because it’s their label…

…that means they Koyn’d it themselves.


NOTE: Koyn is open now for lunch and dinner, seven days a week. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right here.

Koyn | 38 Grosvenor St, London W1K 4QA

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38 Grosvenor St, Mayfair, Central London, W1K 4QA

7.1 | Good