A new contender has just boldly swaggered into the pantheon of London’s great Greek restaurants.
OMA has now flung its doors open in Borough Market, and it’s a wonderful little spot – something that doesn’t come as a particularly big surprise, given that it comes to us from restaurateur David Carter. He’s the founder of SMOKESTAK and co-founder of manteca, both of which have a Bib Gourmand from the people at Michelin – meaning that they’re both good quality and good value. And OMA has the same DNA.
It’s not fantastically easy to find – it’s tucked around from the entrance to the market on Bedale Street, in a teeny little passageway, with a plain door just across from Padella. Google Maps will likely tell you to come in through the entrance to AGORA, which is OMA’s more casual cousin. If you do, then just head along the lengthy corridor to the left, and make your way upstairs.
Inside you’ll immediately be hit with the earthy smell of freshly baked flatbreads, the heady atmosphere of buzzing chatter and an impressively large fish counter, its contents nestled in a bed of glistening ice. Understated olive concrete walls and sleek minimalist countertops conspire with the low lighting to summon a very chic, date-spot energy. And the rooftop terrace will be an absolute magnet during the warmer months.
The kitchen is the domain of chef Jorge Paredes (formerly executive chef of Sabor), who has talent to burn and an open fire to do it on. Standout dishes he’s whipping up include some salt cod draped in XO sauce and heaped onto a creamy bed of labneh; a bowl of thick-cut yellowfin tuna crudo in a crisp clementine ponzu topped by crisp shards of garlic; and roasted skewers loaded with fat hunks of sausage & octopus.
Here’s that ruby red tuna crudo – it was absolutely delicious
And there’s a pretty extensive wine list to match all of this, with an eye-widening 400 bottles-worth of mineral-leaning, coastal vintages from across Greece, Corsica, La Palma, Tenerife, and the coastal regions of both Europe and South Africa.
Given that it’s a Greek restaurant, it’s quite appropriate that it’s an epic…
NOTE: OMA open now, Tuesday to Sunday. You can find out more, and make a booking at their website right here.
OMA | 2-4 Bedale St, SE1 9AL
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